Driver Info
Stock Rules:1980 and newer, drivers meeting at 5:30
If it doesn't say you can, YOU CAN'T!
INSPECTION OPENS AT 12 NOON. CARS MUST PASS INSPECTION AND HAVE A FLAG BY 4:30 OR YOU WILL NOT RUN!
DO NOT READ ANYTHING INTO THESE RULES, JUST READ THE RULES!!
Or you will be loaded, your choice! NO ALL BLACK cars, dark cars must have contrasting letter/numbers. DO NOT paint anywhere on suspension or frame, we will not even inspect your car. - Remove all glass mirrors and plastic. Remove all decking in wagons
COMPETITION RULES:
- Drivers must remain in the vehicle with helmet, seat belt, eye protection and steering wheel on until notified by an official that it is safe to exit the vehicle.
- Driver’s door hits are illegal. If the hit is deemed by the official to be careless or intentional, you will be disqualified. If you use your driver’s door as a defense, we will not enforce the rules.
- No hot rodding in the pits. Keep it at an idle.
- Any open door will be cause disqualification, you are allowed one fire, and then second fire will be cause for disqualification. You may return in later rounds.
- Sandbagging is not tolerated and will be strictly enforced. Locking up the brakes prior to a hit for anything other than a driver’s door will be a cause for disqualification. The fans pay to see a show, put one on for them! - You must make AGGRESSIVE HIT every 60 seconds. - You will be given ample time for restarts. We do not use the clock exclusively. We try to work with you if you are hung up. Hitters get more time than sandbaggers. - This is not a team event; team driving will not be tolerated. if the derby is stopped for sandbagging you will get a pink S sprayed on your car.
- Any questions, CALL FIRST. Don’t assume anything. The Officials decision is final. Body
- No sedagons, no creasing or frame shaping, forming or folding allowed. - Hood must be open for inspection.
- Wagons ONLY if you remove your tail gate may have 6 places of wire 2 strands max must be behind axle sheet metal to sheet metal only roof to floor.
- Anything can be removed, NOTHING can be added. – All cars competing must have a hood on at all times to run.
- Fasten trunks, hoods, tail gates in 6 places, 2x2x2 angle,2x2 flat steel, chain or 2 strands of #9 wire (Sheet metal to sheet metal only)or 6 locations using ½ bolts with store bought washers through the drip rail in the trunk
- Door seams may have no more than 12” of weld, vertical seam only. 2” x 1/4” strap.
FRAMES:
- You may dimple or notch your rear frame rails only to achieve the frame to roll
- NO welding, bolting, wiring or adding any material/substance to strengthen frames. -At Inspectors discretion frames will be drilled, wire wheeled or wiped down. – Absolutely not painting or spraying any material on frames or welds. Cars will not be inspected.
- No cold bending frames at all!! All frames will be checked with a straight edge. IF CAUGHT COLD BENDING or TILTING it will NOT run. NO OPTION TO FIX!!!
BODYMOUNTS:
- You may have up to a 6” core support spacer (if it cold bends or kinks your frame you will not run. It says up to 6 inch you may can only fit 3 inches don’t push this rule)
- If you choose to change your core support mounts with 2 of your 5/8 threaded rods, you get 3 plates 1/4x 5”x 5” max, 7- 5/8 nuts ,7 -3"OD max 1/8 thick washers per threaded rod CORE SUPPORT ONLY. If core support bolts are changed, this will count for 2 of your 6 mounts to hold the hood down.
- ALL body bolts must remain stock with the exception i will allow you to change up to 4 bolts with no larger than 1/2 inch bolt but must go through the factory bushing. if you change more than 4 you will loose the extras and not be allowed to put anything in there place. do not push this rule. bolt may only go through frame and body as it was factory.
- No attaching body bolts to any part of the cage/roll over bar.
- #9 wire or chain required in front windshield.
DRIVETRAIN:
- ANY drive train & transmission (manual transmissions allowed, steel aftermarket bell housings allowed but trans tunnel must be cut and not touching the bell in any way, no trans brace, no mid plates.
- You may run a basic front plate and lower engine cradle with pulley protector, may run aftermarket mounts as long as there the bushing style.
- No engine chains, unless approved with pictures
Rear axle:
- Any rear 5 or 8 lug, may not strengthen car in any way.
- Rear end brace will be allowed.
- Pinion brake is ok
- You may run 3/8 chain around rear end back to the frame with only each end of the chain welded back to the frame for ride height control. Any extra chain links or weld on the frame will cause you to run working suspension.
Bumpers:
- You may hardnose front and rear bumpers where the frame is cut in FRONT of the core support mount, but no shortening rear frame. Follow rules below if using a shock.
- You may weld on any DI approved bumper(see below). Bumper brackets (in factory location) maybe weld continuously to frame 4 inches from the back of bumper only. In addition you may put 4 one inch welds on back side of bumper bracket or to weld shock inside frame(example Crown Vics). You may shorten 80 and newer fords up to core support mount but core support must bolt in the factor location. Do Not move the mount or mounting hole. you may also be hard nosed. Call with special cars to mount bumper legally. Rear brackets on rear and front brackets on front. - Or you may chain, 2 piece of chain per side BOLTED from the mount to mount to hold on the bumper.
- Bumper may not exceed 9’’x9’’. - BUMPERS are interchangeable for all cars. -IF you start with a stock/replacement bumper you are allowed to re-enforce inside of bumper
- Bumper may not exceed 9’’x9’’. - BUMPERS are interchangeable for all cars. -IF you start with a stock/replacement bumper you are allowed to re-enforce inside of bumper
- Bumper must appear stock from the stands with no spike or protruding items.
- If your bumper will not fit in a factory skin, it is too big.
- You may weld the outer chrome skin to the bumper inner frame - Bumpers may be cut to keep them out of the tires/ no sharp ends. - Bumpers may be flipped (upside down). TIRES & BRAKES: - No tires taller than 30". 4 wheels max per car. No dual tires. - No split rims, studded tires or 100% solid wheels, you may use aftermarket center with various bolt patterns, solid centers are fine. Welds must be approved by judges on rear tires. Stay off the area of the rim the tube touches, except to weld your center into the rim.
- Valve stem protectors allowed, Valve stem protectors may not extend more than 6 inches from valve stem. Not allowed to be a rim protector. -Inner bead locks must not extend past stock tire bead area, not to exceed 2 inches wide. 1 inch outer lip ring allowed on outside bead.
- Doubled or foam filled tires allowed. - All cars must be able to demonstrate the ability to stop at any time. If your brakes do not work, you will not compete.
- You may not change tires after inspection, ride height will be measured with your competition tires only.
SUSPENSION and STEERING:
- You may weld 2 straps per upper A-Arm 2”x2” to maintain ride height.
- You may change coil springs to a stiffer oem passenger car spring.
- You may use store bought spring spacers (no homemade spacers or spacers on top of the springs)
- You may use a single strand #9 wire to hold coil spring to rear end. Leaf spring cars may use 4 single strands #9 wire as leaf clamps per spring stack.
- All suspension and steering must remain stock ( unless a modification is stated ).
- Aftermarket steering columns and shafts are allowed. These components may not strength car in anyway at anytime.
- Tie rods maybe reinforced in only 1 of the following 2 ways; 1) sleeve maybe discarded and pipe/solid rod tapped can be put in it's place. 2) Factory sleeve and ends maybe welded and reinforced with steel. Tie rod ends must be factory ends and fit the spindle and drag link without reaming the holes larger. A store bought washer maybe placed over the steam of the tie rod and welded.
- Upper A arms maybe interchanged as long as there able to be bolted on. You may cut/ trim to make fit but no welding on brackets etc. A arm must bolt on factory brackets of frame, no drilling new holes or enlarging existing holes. Example: 80-91 box ford a arms being installed on a 98-02. Cut the mounting bar out and trim the edges of a arms to get height.
- Rear control arms may be changed but must be stock. You may shorten but max 2” overlap.
- 98 up watt links conversion will be allowed only in the following way!! Upper trailing arm brackets must be bolted in. They must be 2 separate brackets, may not be larger than 6”x 12”x 3/8” thick max. 4- 5/8 bolts, nuts and 8 washers per bracket. Brackets may only be bolted to package tray and bolts may not stick thru body. Brackets may not strength frame or body. NO WELDING AT ALL OF UPPER BRACKETS. Must run factory control arms, may be shorted but nothing to strengthen them.
- 98 up watt links LOWER BRACKET Conversion. Only 1 way will be allowed to mount lower trailing arm bracket. 1 piece of square tube 3”x 3”x 3/8”x 3” long max per side of frame maybe used. Cut the square tube to make a C channel. It must be welded to the inboard of the frame at the point you want your trailing arm mounted. Drill your hole thru the tube and only 1 thickness of the frame. Bolt your arm into place. No other bolts will be allowed to mount this bracket. No factory mounting brackets will be allowed to mount the trailing arms.
DRIVERS COMPARTMENT :
- 4 point square cage only, (1) down tube in the center of each front door welded to sheet metal only nothing to the frame. max 60 inch cage over all measurement. 6 inch max, Must be mounted horizontally and 6 inches off floor. Gussets only in interior of 4 point cage.
- Gas tank mount may be welded to back bar, but bar and fuel cell/tank must be 4 inches from rear sheet metal. See below for mounting fuel tank/ cell to floor.
- Halo bar allowed is allowed, 2-1/2 bolts with 1/2 washers to attach to roof. The halo bar may only be attached to the back seat bar or sidebars, not to floor.
- Drivers door must be padded.
- Gas tank and batteries must be moved and secured. Tank behind the seat, Battery centered in the passenger front floor.
- Nothing may be mounted in a way that strengthens the car. NOT EVEN 03 AND NEWER!!!!
- Trans coolers allowed. Must be mounted inside 4 point cage area. Or on cage must be tight to cage if mounted on back bar.
NEWER FORDS
- 03 AND NEWER FORDS will have to maintain the factory aluminum cradle and factory rack and pinion. You may use a layover steel cradle (budde and big show approved) for your engine but only bolted to the aluminum cradle in the original mounting holes. No welding allowed on the cradle. No plates on bottom of the cradle.
- can over rule stock replacement upper ball joints, no screw ins will be allowed. These cars are hard enough.
Simple rules, simple build, keep it that way. Again do not get "creative" or read into these rules, let’s get back to the basics. If it is not clearly described above, it is not allowed. If it doesn't say you can, YOU CAN'T!!
INSPECTION PROCEDURES:
- Official’s decisions are final. - You will be given one (1) opportunity to correct items on your car. - Each car gets a maximum of 2 times thru inspection. (0ne re inspect)
- Each car gets a maximum of 2 times thru inspection. (0ne re inspect) - Cars will be impounded after inspection and staged in a secure location.
- You must be completely ready to bolt the hood down during inspection and then put the car in the staging area.
- No further work will be allowed and cars will not be allowed to return to their trailers.
- Do not come to the inspection line if you are not done preparing your car.
- Any added or welded metal plate/rod or material not specifically covered in the rules, will be removed completely as well as the surrounding metal. Don’t do it or your car will be weakened! Call ahead! Please contact Timothy Colvett at 931-797-6137
Stock Rules: 1980 and newer, drivers meeting at 5:30
INSPECTION OPENS AT 12 NOON. CARS MUST PASS INSPECTION AND HAVE A FLAG BY 4:30 OR YOU WILL NOT RUN!
DO NOT READ ANYTHING INTO THESE RULES, JUST READ THE RULES!!
If it doesn’t say you can, YOU CAN’T!
Or you will be loaded, your choice! NO ALL BLACK cars, dark cars must have contrasting letter/numbers. DO NOT paint anywhere on suspension or frame, we will not even inspect your car. – Remove all glass mirrors and plastic. Remove all decking in wagons
COMPETITION RULES:
– Drivers must remain in the vehicle with helmet, seat belt, eye protection and steering wheel on until notified by an official that it is safe to exit the vehicle.
– Driver’s door hits are illegal. If the hit is deemed by the official to be careless or intentional, you will be disqualified. If you use your driver’s door as a defense, we will not enforce the rules.
– No hot rodding in the pits. Keep it at an idle.
– Any open door will be cause disqualification, you are allowed one fire, and then second fire will be cause for disqualification. You may return in later rounds.
– Sandbagging is not tolerated and will be strictly enforced. Locking up the brakes prior to a hit for anything other than a driver’s door will be a cause for disqualification. The fans pay to see a show, put one on for them!
– You must make AGGRESSIVE HIT every 60 seconds.
– You will be given ample time for restarts. We do not use the clock exclusively. We try to work with you if you are hung up. Hitters get more time than sandbaggers.
– This is not a team event; team driving will not be tolerated. if the derby is stopped for sandbagging you will get a pink S sprayed on your car.
– Any questions, CALL FIRST. Don’t assume anything. The Officials decision is final.
Body
– No sedagons, no creasing or frame shaping, forming or folding allowed.
– Hood must be open for inspection.
– Wagons ONLY if you remove your tail gate may have 6 places of wire 2 strands max must be behind axle sheet metal to sheet metal only roof to floor.
– Anything can be removed, NOTHING can be added.
– All cars competing must have a hood on at all times to run.
– Fasten trunks, hoods, tail gates in 6 places, 2x2x2 angle,2×2 flat steel, chain or 2 strands of #9 wire (Sheet metal to sheet metal only)or 6 locations using ½ bolts with store bought washers through the drip rail in the trunk.
-Door seams may have no more than 12” of weld, vertical seam only. 2” x 1/4” strap.
-BODYMOUNTS
-You may have up to a 6” core support spacer (if it cold bends or kinks your frame you will not run. It says up to 6 inch you may can only fit 3 inches don’t push this rule)
– If you choose to change your core support mounts with 2 of your 5/8 threaded rods, you get 3 plates 1/4x 5”x 5” max, 7- 5/8 nuts ,7 -3″OD max 1/8 thick washers per threaded rod CORE SUPPORT ONLY. If core support bolts are changed, this will count for 2 of your 6 mounts to hold the hood down.
-ALL body bolts must remain stock with the exception i will allow you to change up to 4 bolts with no larger than 1/2 inch bolt but must go through the factory bushing. if you change more than 4 you will loose the extras and not be allowed to put anything in there place. do not push this rule. bolt may only go through frame and body as it was factory.
– No attaching body bolts to any part of the cage/roll over bar.
– #9 wire or chain required in front windshield.
FRAMES:
– You may dimple or notch your rear frame rails only to achieve the frame to roll
– NO welding, bolting, wiring or adding any material/substance to strengthen frames.
– At Inspectors discretion frames will be drilled, wire wheeled or wiped down.
– Absolutely not painting or spraying any material on frames or welds. Cars will not be inspected.
– No cold bending frames at all!! All frames will be checked with a straight edge. IF CAUGHT COLD BENDING or TILTING it will NOT run. NO OPTION TO FIX!!!
SUSPENSION and STEERING:
– You may weld 2 straps per upper A-Arm 2”x2” to maintain ride height.
– You may change coil springs to a stiffer oem passenger car spring.
– You may use store bought spring spacers (no homemade spacers or spacers on top of the springs)
– You may use a single strand #9 wire to hold coil spring to rear end. Leaf spring cars may use 4 single strands #9 wire as leaf clamps per spring stack.
– All suspension and steering must remain stock ( unless a modification is stated ).
– Aftermarket steering columns and shafts are allowed. These components may not strength car in anyway at anytime.
– Tie rods maybe reinforced in only 1 of the following 2 ways;
1) sleeve maybe discarded and pipe/solid rod tapped can be put in it’s place.
2) Factory sleeve and ends maybe welded and reinforced with steel. Tie rod ends must be factory ends and fit the spindle and drag link without reaming the holes larger. A store bought washer maybe placed over the steam of the tie rod and welded.
– Upper A arms maybe interchanged as long as there able to be bolted on. You may cut/ trim to make fit but no welding on brackets etc. A arm must bolt on factory brackets of frame, no drilling new holes or enlarging existing holes. Example: 80-91 box ford a arms being installed on a 98-02. Cut the mounting bar out and trim the edges of a arms to get height.
-Rear control arms may be changed but must be stock. You may shorten but max 2” overlap.
– 98 up watt links conversion will be allowed only in the following way!! Upper trailing arm brackets must be bolted in. They must be 2 separate brackets, may not be larger than 6”x 12”x 3/8” thick max. 4- 5/8 bolts, nuts and 8 washers per bracket. Brackets may only be bolted to package tray and bolts may not stick thru body. Brackets may not strength frame or body. NO WELDING AT ALL OF UPPER BRACKETS. Must run factory control arms, may be shorted but nothing to strengthen them.
-98 up watt links LOWER BRACKET Conversion. Only 1 way will be allowed to mount lower trailing arm bracket. 1 piece of square tube 3”x 3”x 3/8”x 3” long max per side of frame maybe used. Cut the square tube to make a C channel. It must be welded to the inboard of the frame at the point you want your trailing arm mounted. Drill your hole thru the tube and only 1 thickness of the frame. Bolt your arm into place. No other bolts will be allowed to mount this bracket. No factory mounting brackets will be allowed to mount the trailing arms.
DRIVETRAIN:
– ANY drive train & transmission (manual transmissions allowed, steel aftermarket bell housings allowed but trans tunnel must be cut and not touching the bell in any way, no trans brace, no mid plates.
-you may run a basic front plate and lower engine cradle with pulley protector, may run aftermarket mounts as long as there the bushing style.
-no engine chains, unless approved with pictures
Rear axle
– Any rear 5 or 8 lug, may not strengthen car in any way.
– Rear end brace will be allowed.
-Pinion brake is ok
– You may run 3/8 chain around rear end back to the frame with only each end of the chain welded back to the frame for ride height control. Any extra chain links or weld on the frame will cause you to run working suspension.
DRIVERS COMPARTMENT :
– 4 point square cage only, (1) down tube in the center of each front door welded to sheet metal only nothing to the frame. max 60 inch cage over all measurement. 6 inch max, Must be mounted horizontally and 6 inches off floor. Gussets only in interior of 4 point cage.
– Gas tank mount may be welded to back bar, but bar and fuel cell/tank must be 4 inches from rear sheet metal. See below for mounting fuel tank/ cell to floor.
– Halo bar allowed is allowed, 2-1/2 bolts with 1/2 washers to attach to roof. The halo bar may only be attached to the back seat bar or sidebars, not to floor.
– Drivers door must be padded.
– Gas tank and batteries must be moved and secured. Tank behind the seat, Battery centered in the passenger front floor.
– Nothing may be mounted in a way that strengthens the car. NOT EVEN 03 AND NEWER!!!!
– Trans coolers allowed. Must be mounted inside 4 point cage area. Or on cage must be tight to cage if mounted on back bar.
Bumpers:
– You may hardnose front and rear bumpers where the frame is cut in FRONT of the core support mount, but no shortening rear frame. Follow rules below if using a shock.
– You may weld on any DI approved bumper(see below). Bumper brackets (in factory location) maybe weld continuously to frame 4 inches from the back of bumper only. In addition you may put 4 one inch welds on back side of bumper bracket or to weld shock inside frame(example Crown Vics).
You may shorten 80 and newer fords up to core support mount but core support must bolt in the factor location. Do Not move the mount or mounting hole. you may also be hard nosed.
Call with special cars to mount bumper legally. Rear brackets on rear and front brackets on front. – Or you may chain, 2 piece of chain per side BOLTED from the mount to mount to hold on the bumper.
– Bumper height must be 16″ to 22″ measured to the bottom of the frame at the back and front body mount location.
-Bumper may not exceed 9’’x9’’.
– BUMPERS are interchangeable for all cars.
–IF you start with a stock/replacement bumper you are allowed to re-enforce inside of bumper
– Bumper must appear stock from the stands with no spike or protruding items.
-If your bumper will not fit in a factory skin, it is too big.
– You may weld the outer chrome skin to the bumper inner frame
– Bumpers may be cut to keep them out of the tires/ no sharp ends. – Bumpers may be flipped (upside down).
TIRES & BRAKES:
– No tires taller than 30″. 4 wheels max per car. No dual tires.
– No split rims, studded tires or 100% solid wheels, you may use aftermarket center with various bolt patterns, solid centers are fine. Welds must be approved by judges on rear tires. Stay off the area of the rim the tube touches, except to weld your center into the rim.
– Valve stem protectors allowed, Valve stem protectors may not extend more than 6 inches from valve stem. Not allowed to be a rim protector.
-Inner bead locks must not extend past stock tire bead area, not to exceed 2 inches wide. 1 inch outer lip ring allowed on outside bead.
– Doubled or foam filled tires allowed.
– All cars must be able to demonstrate the ability to stop at any time. If your brakes do not work, you will not compete.
– You may not change tires after inspection, ride height will be measured with your competition tires only.
03 AND NEWER FORDS
– will have to maintain the factory aluminum cradle and factory rack and pinion. You may use a layover steel cradle (budde and big show approved) for your engine but only bolted to the aluminum cradle in the original mounting holes. No welding allowed on the cradle. No plates on bottom of the cradle.
-can over rule stock replacement upper ball joints, no screw ins will be allowed. These cars are hard enough.
Simple rules, simple build, keep it that way. Again do not get “creative” or read into these rules, let’s get back to the basics. If it is not clearly described above, it is not allowed. If it doesn’t say you can, YOU CAN’T!!
INSPECTION PROCEDURES: – Official’s decisions are final. – You will be given one (1) opportunity to correct items on your car. – Each car gets a maximum of 2 times thru inspection. (0ne re inspect) – Cars will be impounded after inspection and staged in a secure location. – You must be completely ready to bolt the hood down during inspection and then put the car in the staging area. – No further work will be allowed and cars will not be allowed to return to their trailers. – Do not come to the inspection line if you are not done preparing your car. – Any added or welded metal plate/rod or material not specifically covered in the rules, will be removed completely as well as the surrounding metal. Don’t do it or your car will be weakened! Call ahead!
Please contact Timothy Colvett at 931-797-6137
2025 LIMITED COMPACTS WELD
Entries are open to men and women who hold a valid driver’s license. The Following regulations shall be observed for safety and fairness to all. Orderly conduct is required of all drivers and pit personnel. If not, any driver and or people affiliated with that car will be removed without ANY refunds or prize money. Misconduct may result in being banned from present and/or future participation. Any driver or crew member not complying with any one of the rules will be disqualified. Crew members are the responsibility of the driver.
Entries:
1. Each driver must be at least 14 years old.
2. Each driver must furnish their car. The driver who is registered to the car must drive that car in the heat assigned to them. Unless the officials are notified of a driver change and approve it.
3. No vans, SUVs, or mini trucks.
4. No V8 engines allowed.
5. All cars must have a factory wheelbase of 110 inches or less.
6. All cars will have to pass inspection before the tech line closes.
7. Before the start of the driver’s meeting, each driver must sign an entry and a release form.
Participation Rules:
1. Drivers may maneuver either forward or backward.
2. Hitting an opponent’s car in the driver’s door is not allowed and will be cause for disqualification.
3. Must make a damaging hit (from a spectator’s point of view) every 60 seconds. No team driving or sandbagging.
4. All drivers must attend the driver’s meeting before the start time.
5. All drivers must remain in their cars until the car is removed from the track. Unless an official removes the driver.
6. No driver or pitman under the influence of alcohol will be permitted to enter the arena or to participate.
7. Any driver not in place when called upon will be disqualified.
8. Pitmen are not allowed in the arena during a heat.
9. No one will be allowed to stay in the pit area without a pit pass.
10. No one under the influence of alcohol is permitted to drive.
11. Cars may be inspected at any time for reinforcements, etc. The top 3 finalists will be subject to reinspection after the finals.
12. Car and driver in the inspection area only.
Preparation Of Cars:
1. Vehicles may only be modified in the following ways. Any modifications not specifically authorized by the rules are strictly prohibited.
2. Do not read into the rules! Just read and follow the rules! Not following the rules will result in you being loaded. Your choice!
3. The driver’s name should be above the number on the front doors, or you can run a number sign. The number sign cannot reinforce the car. No obscenities are allowed.
4. Concrete, metal plating, wood, foam, or pins in the frame will be considered added ballast and will result in the car being loaded.
5. Station wagon decking must be removed.
6. Anything can be removed; nothing can be added unless specified in the rules.
7. After any car passes inspection, you will not be allowed to add repair plates to the frame or body in any way! Do not weld your frame or body after heating. Remember, cars will be reinspected.
CAGE:
1. All cage material can be no larger than 2”x6” rectangular tubing unless specified for a specific rule.
2. A 4-point cage will be allowed with a vertical halo. It must be a minimum of 4” off the floor everywhere except the down bars going straight down.
3. Both door bars can only go 10” past the outside door seam on the front doors to where the bar will be mounted.
4. No cage material can connect to or touch the engine, transmission, or any of their components
5. The halo bar may go all the way to the floor or frame. If going to the frame, it can only be welded to the top side of the frame.
6. You may weld two down bars from the cage to the frame vertically or to the floor to protect batteries and your feet. These down bars must remain behind the inside door seam and may only be welded to the top side of the frame. These bars cannot exceed 2”x3”.
Gas Tank and Protector:
1. Aftermarket tanks are allowed and preferred. Mounting the gas tank protector is also preferred.
2. Factory tanks will be allowed to run if they are metal! No plastic tanks. Will be allowed to run under the car only if they are in front of the rear axle and fully secured. If
This becomes an issue; we will not allow it any further.
3. Gas tank protectors can only be 24” wide and must be 4” off the floor. Gas tank protector halo must be 6” away from the roof, minimum, and cannot extend past the rear firewall (speaker deck). The station wagon gas tank protector cannot extend beyond the front of the rear humps. The gas tank protector can touch the speaker decking sheet metal, but the sheet metal cannot be altered or removed. The gas tank protector halo can be connected to the roof halo, but the material must be inside the car. Max material is 2”x6”, and these bars cannot go any further back than the backside of the gas tank protector.
Driver’s Compartment:
1. Transmission coolers and oil coolers may be placed inside the car and secured. All fans on coolers must have a safety cover. They cannot connect to the frame!
2. Battery boxes may be in the passenger side floorboard or attached to your cage. Must be secured and covered. Max of (2) batteries. Cannot connect to the frame or crossmember.
3. Aftermarket straight column steering is allowed.
4. Aftermarket brake/gas pedal setups are allowed and can only bolt to the floor sheet metal. Cannot attach to frame or crossmember. Cannot strengthen the car.
Frame:
1. No welding allowed on the frame.
2. You may be allowed to pre-curl the rear frame section if you wish.
3. Cradle bolts may be changed to ¾” allthread running from the bottom of the cradle through the frame. Must be fastened with flat stamped washers and ¾” nut. Must be flush with the top of the frame.
4. You are allowed (1) 3/8” chain per side from unibody to cradle. 1 loop is only welded on each end. You CANNOT weld the loops together.
Bumpers:
1. OEM bumpers, replicas, and homemade bumpers are allowed.
2. The bumper may be built to have a 14″ point from the farthest point back from the back side of the bumper to the point. However, the point itself may be no more than factory Chrysler’s point itself and spanning over 36″ span across the bumper. (Will have a cut-out template to follow).
3. Bumpers cannot be any taller than 8” at any location.
4. You may shorten the frame to 1” in front of the core support mount and hard-nose the bumper to the frame.
5. This means the main frame cannot attach to the cradle on FWD cars in any way.
6. You will be allowed a 4” wide x 6” long x ¼” thick bumper bracket per side.
7. Bumper bracket must be on the wheel side of the frame rail and must have a ½” inspection hole. If there isn’t one, you will cut one.
8. There CANNOT be any square tube added to the back of the bumper and inserted inside the frame. If this is found, you will not get the chance to cut and will not run, period!
9. All bumper mounting rules apply to the rear bumper as well.
Body:
1. All cars must be welded 5” on 5” off with a max of 3” wide 1/8” thick strap. This includes doors and the trunk lid. Also includes the tailgates on wagons.
2. The driver’s door may be welded solid.
3. The driver’s door is allowed a wrap that cannot go more than 3 inches past the door seam on either side.
4. All body panels may be creased, but no doubling of seams.
5. You are allowed (3/8” bolts per fender and (3/8” bolts in the hood. All with a max of (1) 1/2” fender washers.
6. The body cannot be welded to the frame in any fashion. This includes the unibody to the K frame.
7. A front window bar must be run on each car. Minimum of 1 bar, max of 2 bars. Bars cannot be more than 3” wide. This is for safety only.
8. Bars cannot extend past the firewall sheet metal and can only be welded 6 inches on the sheet metal.
9. May go from the roof to the dash bar or the roof to the firewall, but not both, and cannot be connected to the halo.
10. A rear window bar will be allowed. Must run from the roof to the front trunk seam and may go 3” to either side of the seam, allowing a total of 6”. This cannot attach to the halo.
11. You are allowed 3 locations of #9 wire, builder’s choice. These are (2) loops per location, a total of 4 strands per location. No chain or cables allowed.
Hoods:
All cars must have a hood! No exceptions.
1. The Entire Hood must open for inspection.
2. Must be in the stock location.
3. You are allowed (6) total hood bolts in any configuration. The core support bolts count as hood bolts if they come through the hood. No hood bolts bigger than 3/4” all thread are allowed (1) 3” x 3” x 1/4” plate per hood bolt location. The plate must be on the top side of the hood.
4. Firewall hood bolts cannot connect to the frame in any way.
5. The hood must cover the entire fan area.
6. There must be a hole big enough in the hood for a fire extinguisher to be used in case of a fire.
Body Bolts:
1. All body bolts are allowed to be changed to 3/4” all thread or bolt and cannot be longer than 8 inches. All body bolts or all-thread must be straight vertical rods only, no bends or angled pieces. All body
2. Bolts must have the factory rubber bushing or a 1” body spacer of some sort per location changed. Spacers cannot be any larger than a factory body spacer size (2”).
3. Only the front two at the core support may run up through the hood as body bolts.
4. Absolutely no welding is allowed to mount body bolts.
5. Body bolt locations cannot connect to another body bolt location.
6. No welding the spacers to the frame!
7. Must be secured with stamped washers and nuts. All washers and nuts are on the bottom side must be inside the frame, not across the bottom of the frame.
8. The top of the body bolt inside the cab or trunk of the car may have a (1) 3x3x1/4 plate to serve as a washer with (1) ¾” nut.
9. (2) pieces of ¾” all thread may run through the trunk. These may run through the frame being used as a body bolt, or may run sheet metal to sheet metal.
Engine:
1. Engines must be 6-cylinder or smaller. No V8 engines!
2. Engines and transmission of choice otherwise.
3. May have headers.
4. May have carb conversions.
5. May have a simple carb protector that must stay between the headers and cannot strengthen the car in any way.
6. A lower engine cradle may be used for RWD cars. Must bolt to the block of the engine and can only be mounted using a factory OEM rubber lower mount of some sort.
7. Only a simple cradle may be used.
8. No front or mid plates allowed. This is for mounting purposes only.
Transmission:
1. Crossmembers on RWD cars must be an OEM crossmember.
2. You can use a straight piece of 2”x2”x1/4” tubing and (2)- 2”x2”x1/4” x 6” long pieces of angle iron to set the crossmember on.
(1) One side of the angle iron can be welded to the frame; you can only have
(1) angle iron piece per side frame rail. If using angle iron, factory ears must be cut off the frame.
Suspension:
1. Built front struts are allowed.
2. They may be welded up, stuffed, and reinforced on the inside.
3. The upper and lower control arms and front wheel hubs must remain factory.
4. Upper a-arms may be welded down using (2) pieces of 2” x 3” x 1/4” strap per upper a-arm.
Rear Suspension:
1. Leaf springs must be of factory OEM origin. May have a total of 7 leaves per side.
2. No flat stacks!
3. Must have 1” stagger between leaves on both sides of the spring.
4. (6) clamps per side of the car. Not to exceed 2”x4”x 1/4” thickness flat strap, and can use (2) 3/8” bolts per clamp.
5. Hangers must remain stock, but 1” of the hanger can be welded to the frame per hanger.
6. The hanger and spring must bolt together. Springs cannot be welded together. Must pivot!
7. Leaf spring hangers must be in the stock location. No short stacks or moving hangers from the side of the frame!
8. Coil spring cars may double the rear coils.
9. May have 1 3/8” chain per side to set and adjust the ride height.
Wheels and Tires:
1. 15” wheel and tire or smaller may be run.
2. Wheels may have a small 8” multi-center.
3. No full center and no bead locks.
4. May have a 1” lip guard and a valve stem protector.
5. May run solid tires on the rear of FWD. NO FOAM filled.
Rear Ends:
1. Any OEM 5-lug rear end may be run on RWD cars.
2. Rear Ends can have a back brace only. Brace not to exceed 2”x4”x1/4”. Brace must be 4” away from the axle flanges. This is the only bracing allowed! Rearend cannot reinforce the car in any way. No solid rear axles on FWD.
3. No full braces, no axle savers, etc.
4. Pinion brakes are allowed. Must work.
5. Slider driveshafts are allowed.
Repair Plates:
1. No plates on fresh cars!
2. Plates for pre-ran cars: (2) 4”x6”x1/4” per rail.
OFFICIAL STATEMENTS:
The officials will have the final decision on all car build rules and show rules at their show. All officials’ decisions are final. No refunds of entry fees will be allowed. If you have any questions about your build, please call before the show.
Full-Size Bone Stock Rules
General Driver Rules:
-
ALL RULES MUST BE FOLLOWED OR YOU WILL NOT RUN.
-
Drivers are required to wear a helmet and a seat belt. Fire jackets are suggested but not a requirement. Drivers must wear long pants and no shorts. NO PASSENGERS ALLOWED.
Driver’s will be given 1 minute to make an aggressive hit during competition. We will time you out for not completing a hit.
You can run a roof sign with your car number. You can run your car numbers on the sides of your car. You must have one or the other. NO profanity on the car. We will paint over it.
Drivers will not be allowed to consume alcohol or drugs while competing during the event.
Car qualifies, not the driver. All drivers and pit crew must sign the waiver.
Drivers you must sign in at the pit table to receive your inspection sheet. Without your inspection sheet your car will not be inspected.
Car preparation:
NO PAINTING OR UNDERCOATING OF THE FRAME. NO WELDING ANYWHERE UNLESS STATED. THIS IS A BONE STOCK CLASS, YOU WILL NOT GET MORE THAN 2 ATTEMPTS TO MAKE YOUR CAR RIGHT AFTER YOUR FIRST INSPECTION.
- Any American car make may be ran. 1980 or newer cars only. NO CARS PRE 1980. NO hearse, ambulance, El Camino’s, trucks,full size vans, 4×4, SUV, cut down limos or full length limousines. Any car or mini van made before 1980 you will not compete.
- All Cars must be completely stock unless stated within these rules.
- All glass, trim, pot metal, and interior must be removed from the car before you reach the event. You may leave the dash in if you prefer, but it’s not a requirement.
- NO trailer hitches or extra braces allowed. Remove them or you will not run.
- All cars are subject for inspection or you will not run. 6. All cars must have working brakes prior to inspection.
- NO WELDING ON THE CAR EXCEPT WHERE ITS STATED IN THESE RULES.
You will be allowed a 4 point cage, cannot exceed 4” in diameter. 62″ side bars with nothing angled to the rear frame humps. NO down bars to floor or frame allowed. You will be allowed a halo bar. The halo bar cannot touch the floor or the frame. Must be attached to the back seat bar or door bars. You will be allowed to bolt the halo bar in 3) spots to the roof using 3/8 bolts. Dash bar must be 6″ away from the firewall. Cage material must be 4″ off the floor. You will be allowed a Gas tank protector, it must run straight back off the back seat bar. Must be 24” wide Max. Must be 3” away from sheet metal and 4” off the floor. The cage cannot be connected to any part of the drivetrain. You will be required (2) 3″ wide maximum strap from the roof to the
wiper cowl. You may also use (2) strands of #9 wire (4) loops thick instead of the strap. Strap may be welded 4″ max on the roof and 6″ max on the wiper cowl. Factory gas tanks may be ran in the factory location if your car came with the gas tank in front of the rear axle. If you choose to run the tank in the back seat area, it must be securely fastened to the floor only. Gas tank must not be used as a kicker. Battery must be moved to the inside of the car and securely mounted to the passenger floorboard of the car. NO FLOOR PLATES ALLOWED TO REINFORCE THE FLOOR OR FRAME. You may use (2) automotive car batteries. NO aftermarket steering column of any kind. Must be a factory column and steering wheel for the year make and model of the car you are running. You can use aftermarket pedal setups and cable shifters. They may not be used to re-enforce any part of the body, or frame in any manner.
Doors:
You may do anything you want to the driver’s door. It can be welded solid with a 3″x3″x1/8″ strap. You can weld a formed door skin to the outside of the driver’s door. Must not exceed 4″ past the door seams on either side of the front door. All other doors may use (2) strands of #9 wire per seam or (2) chains per seam 3/8″ max chain. NO #9 wire may be wrapped around the frame to the door in any manner.
Hood:
You may rebolt the front core support mount bolt using (2) 5/8 all thread, from the frame to the hood. NO added metal in place of the core support spacer. You will only be allowed 1 factory frame rubber spacer, insert in the spacer must still be in place. You will be allowed to #9 wire in two spots per seam on the hood. Hood must have a 10″ hole cut out for fires. You can not bolt or tack weld around the hood holes that are cut. Core support all thread hood washers may not exceed 4″x4″x1/4″ plate. NOTHING ALLOWED IN FRONT OF THE RADIATOR CORE SUPPORT TO FRONT BUMPER.
Trunk:
Trunk lid may be removed from the car completely. If you choose to keep the trunk in place, it must be located on the factory hinges and in the factory location. You will be allowed to cut the trunk lid in 1/2. Whatever you cut off may not be used anywhere else on the car. You will be allowed to (6) spots to #9 wire the trunk lid down. If you choose to bolt your trunk lid in place you will only be allowed (6) 3/8″ bolts. Washers may not exceed 1″ OD.
Frame:
Frames must not be touched or enhanced in any manner other than what is allowed in these rules. You may dimple or notch the rear frame rails the allow the rear end to box up. NO seam welding NO grinding on the frame anywhere. If anything is found you will be loaded with no exceptions. NO frame shaping. Frame may not be cut off or shortened in any manner.
Body:
NO body shaping or creasing of any kind. If you need clarification on this call. Body bolts: Must be factory OE bolt. Must have factory OE body mount spacer with insert in place. IF you have a broken or rusty body bolt you will be allowed 1) strand of #9 wire to repair.
Suspension:
Must be factory OE suspension parts for the year make and model of car you are running. You can use (1) loop 2 wires thick of #9 wire to tie front upper A arms down to gain height. OR You may use (1) ⅜” bolt with (2) ⅜” washers to bolt the upper A arms down. NO other methods may be used to gain suspension height. IE spring spacers, screw in spacers, or strut spacers. NO axle savers. You may weld the spider gears inside the rear end. NO use of any other aftermarket or homemade parts allowed on any part of the suspension. Must have some sort of bounce.
Tires:
17″ or smaller tires. NO solid or foam filled tires. NO Full centered or narrowed wheels. Tires may be doubled and if you choose you can use a small multi-center welded in a factory wheel. NO screwed wheels or bead locks allowed, NO bead lip protectors. Valve stem protectors are ok.
Engine/transmission:
Engine and transmissions must be Ford to Ford, Chevy to Chevy, Mopar to Mopar. NO mis matching engine and transmission combos. Must use factory engine mounts for the engine you are running. The engine mount must bolt to frame just like it came from the factory. You will be allowed to run headers. If you choose, you can switch out to a Simple Solution wiring harness and PCM. Switch box allowed to start the car. Aftermarket fuel pumps are ok. Factory transmission crossmember for the year make and model you are running.
Bumpers/Bumper shocks:
Front and rear bumpers. You may use a Factory automotive steel bumper, It may be seam welded and you will be allowed to stuff the inside of the bumper. Or you can choose an aftermarket replica bumper that may not exceed the dimensions of a Factory automotive style bumper. They must match or you will not run. Bumpers may be welded and or bolted to the bumper shock in a factory manner. Bumper shocks can be drilled and welded so they do not collapse. Bumper shocks cannot be lengthening in any manner. Bumper shocks must also be mounted in the factory location for the car you are running.
Repair plates:
No plates on fresh cars. Pre ran cars will be allowed (2) plates per rail 4″x4″x1/4″ #9 wire: Unlimited #9 wire on pre-ran cars only. IF YOU TRY TO PUSH ANYTHING OTHER THAN WHAT IS STATED YOUR SUBJECT TO FORFEIT YOUR ENTRY FEE AND YOU WILL BE LOADED AND NOT ALLOWED TO RUN.
THIS IS A SET OF GUIDELINES ON HOW TO BUILD YOUR CAR. IF IT DOESN’T SAY YOU CAN SPECIFICALLY DO SOMETHING TO YOUR CAR THAN YOU CAN’T DO IT.
BODYMOUNTS:
- You may have up to a 6” core support spacer (if it cold bends or kinks your frame you will not run. It says up to 6 inch you may can only fit 3 inches don’t push this rule)
- If you choose to change your core support mounts with 2 of your 5/8 threaded rods, you get 3 plates 1/4x 5”x 5” max, 7- 5/8 nuts ,7 -3″OD max 1/8 thick washers per threaded rod CORE SUPPORT ONLY. If core support bolts are changed, this will count for 2 of your 6 mounts to hold the hood down.
- ALL body bolts must remain stock with the exception i will allow you to change up to 4 bolts with no larger than 1/2 inch bolt but must go through the factory bushing. if you change more than 4 you will loose the extras and not be allowed to put anything in there place. do not push this rule. bolt may only go through frame and body as it was factory.
- No attaching body bolts to any part of the cage/roll over bar.
- #9 wire or chain required in front windshield.
FRAMES
- You may dimple or notch your rear frame rails only to achieve the frame to roll
- NO welding, bolting, wiring or adding any material/substance to strengthen frames.
- At Inspectors discretion frames will be drilled, wire wheeled or wiped down.
- Absolutely not painting or spraying any material on frames or welds. Cars will not be inspected.
- No cold bending frames at all!! All frames will be checked with a straight edge. IF CAUGHT COLD BENDING or TILTING it will NOT run. NO OPTION TO FIX!!!
SUSPENSION and STEERING:
- You may weld 2 straps per upper A-Arm 2”x2” to maintain ride height.
- You may change coil springs to a stiffer oem passenger car spring.
- You may use store bought spring spacers (no homemade spacers or spacers on top of the springs)
- You may use a single strand #9 wire to hold coil spring to rear end. Leaf spring cars may use 4 single strands #9 wire as leaf clamps per spring stack.
- All suspension and steering must remain stock ( unless a modification is stated ).
- Aftermarket steering columns and shafts are allowed. These components may not strength car in anyway at anytime.
- Tie rods maybe reinforced in only 1 of the following 2 ways; 1) sleeve maybe discarded and pipe/solid rod tapped can be put in it’s place. 2) Factory sleeve and ends maybe welded and reinforced with steel. Tie rod ends must be factory ends and fit the spindle and drag link without reaming the holes larger. A store bought washer maybe placed over the steam of the tie rod and welded.
- Upper A arms maybe interchanged as long as there able to be bolted on. You may cut/ trim to make fit but no welding on brackets etc. A arm must bolt on factory brackets of frame, no drilling new holes or enlarging existing holes. Example: 80-91 box ford a arms being installed on a 98-02. Cut the mounting bar out and trim the edges of a arms to get height.
- Rear control arms may be changed but must be stock. You may shorten but max 2” overlap.
- 98 up watt links conversion will be allowed only in the following way!! Upper trailing arm brackets must be bolted in. They must be 2 separate brackets, may not be larger than 6”x 12”x 3/8” thick max. 4- 5/8 bolts, nuts and 8 washers per bracket. Brackets may only be bolted to package tray and bolts may not stick thru body. Brackets may not strength frame or body. NO WELDING AT ALL OF UPPER BRACKETS. Must run factory control arms, may be shorted but nothing to strengthen them.
- 98 up watt links LOWER BRACKET Conversion. Only 1 way will be allowed to mount lower trailing arm bracket. 1 piece of square tube 3”x 3”x 3/8”x 3” long max per side of frame maybe used. Cut the square tube to make a C channel. It must be welded to the inboard of the frame at the point you want your trailing arm mounted. Drill your hole thru the tube and only 1 thickness of the frame. Bolt your arm into place. No other bolts will be allowed to mount this bracket. No factory mounting brackets will be allowed to mount the trailing arms.
DRIVETRAIN:
- ANY drive train & transmission (manual transmissions allowed, steel aftermarket bell housings allowed but trans tunnel must be cut and not touching the bell in any way, no trans brace, no mid plates.
- you may run a basic front plate and lower engine cradle with pulley protector, may run aftermarket mounts as long as there the bushing style.
- no engine chains, unless approved with pictures
Rear axle
- Any rear 5 or 8 lug, may not strengthen car in any way.
- Rear end brace will be allowed.
- Pinion brake is ok
- You may run 3/8 chain around rear end back to the frame with only each end of the chain welded back to the frame for ride height control. Any extra chain links or weld on the frame will cause you to run working suspension.
DRIVERS COMPARTMENT :
- 4 point square cage only, (1) down tube in the center of each front door welded to sheet metal only nothing to the frame. max 60 inch cage over all measurement. 6 inch max, Must be mounted horizontally and 6 inches off floor. Gussets only in interior of 4 point cage.
- Gas tank mount may be welded to back bar, but bar and fuel cell/tank must be 4 inches from rear sheet metal. See below for mounting fuel tank/ cell to floor.
- Halo bar allowed is allowed, 2-1/2 bolts with 1/2 washers to attach to roof. The halo bar may only be attached to the back seat bar or sidebars, not to floor.
- Drivers door must be padded.
- Gas tank and batteries must be moved and secured. Tank behind the seat, Battery centered in the passenger front floor.
- Nothing may be mounted in a way that strengthens the car. NOT EVEN 03 AND NEWER!!!!
- Trans coolers allowed. Must be mounted inside 4 point cage area. Or on cage must be tight to cage if mounted on back bar.
Bumpers:
- You may hardnose front and rear bumpers where the frame is cut in FRONT of the core support mount, but no shortening rear frame. Follow rules below if using a shock.
- You may weld on any DI approved bumper(see below). Bumper brackets (in factory location) maybe weld continuously to frame 4 inches from the back of bumper only. In addition you may put 4 one inch welds on back side of bumper bracket or to weld shock inside frame(example Crown Vics).
You may shorten 80 and newer fords up to core support mount but core support must bolt in the factor location. Do Not move the mount or mounting hole. you may also be hard nosed.
Call with special cars to mount bumper legally. Rear brackets on rear and front brackets on front. - Or you may chain, 2 piece of chain per side BOLTED from the mount to mount to hold on the bumper.
- Bumper height must be 16″ to 22″ measured to the bottom of the frame at the back and front body mount location.
- Bumper may not exceed 9’’x9’’.
- BUMPERS are interchangeable for all cars.
- IF you start with a stock/replacement bumper you are allowed to re-enforce inside of bumper
- Bumper must appear stock from the stands with no spike or protruding items.
- If your bumper will not fit in a factory skin, it is too big.
- You may weld the outer chrome skin to the bumper inner frame
- Bumpers may be cut to keep them out of the tires/ no sharp ends.
- Bumpers may be flipped (upside down).
TIRES & BRAKES: - No tires taller than 30″. 4 wheels max per car. No dual tires.
- No split rims, studded tires or 100% solid wheels, you may use aftermarket center with various bolt patterns, solid centers are fine. Welds must be approved by judges on rear tires. Stay off the area of the rim the tube touches, except to weld your center into the rim.
- Valve stem protectors allowed, Valve stem protectors may not extend more than 6 inches from valve stem. Not allowed to be a rim protector.
- Inner bead locks must not extend past stock tire bead area, not to exceed 2 inches wide. 1 inch outer lip ring allowed on outside bead.
- Doubled or foam filled tires allowed.
- All cars must be able to demonstrate the ability to stop at any time. If your brakes do not work, you will not compete.
- You may not change tires after inspection, ride height will be measured with your competition tires only.
03 AND NEWER FORDS
- 03 AND NEWER FORDS will have to maintain the factory aluminum cradle and factory rack and pinion. You may use a layover steel cradle (budde and big show approved) for your engine but only bolted to the aluminum cradle in the original mounting holes. No welding allowed on the cradle. No plates on bottom of the cradle.
- can over rule stock replacement upper ball joints, no screw ins will be allowed. These cars are hard enough.
Simple rules, simple build, keep it that way. Again do not get “creative” or read into these rules, let’s get back to the basics. If it is not clearly described above, it is not allowed. If it doesn’t say you can, YOU CAN’T!!
INSPECTION PROCEDURES:
- Official’s decisions are final. – You will be given one (1) opportunity to correct items on your car.
- Each car gets a maximum of 2 times thru inspection. (0ne re inspect)
- Cars will be impounded after inspection and staged in a secure location.
- You must be completely ready to bolt the hood down during inspection and then put the car in the staging area.
- No further work will be allowed and cars will not be allowed to return to their trailers.
- Do not come to the inspection line if you are not done preparing your car.
Any added or welded metal plate/rod or material not specifically covered in the rules, will be removed completely as well as the surrounding metal. Don’t do it or your car will be weakened! Call ahead!
Please contact Timothy Colvett at 931-797-6137
Jump n Run rules
Car must remain stock like came from factory. No upgraded performance parts on engine or suspension. Stock means stock!
Person or persons in any car racing must have a Helmet with full face or motocross helmet with safety goggles or glasses and a working seat belt MUST BE WORN.
No rough driving!! This is NOT anything goes. NO DOOR shots. Rubbing is racing. Spinning another car is ok.
DO NOT exit your car on the track until that race is over if your car will not move.
Any DOT tire allowed in highway use. No off road tires.
Please conduct yourselves in a professional manner and be a good sport in defeat or victory. Good luck to all!
Jump in run cars my run in the mini car derby afterwards but must remove all plastic and glass before doing so. i loved watching them but the cleanup was a nightmare.
Gut n go mini cars. Rules are very simple anything over is considered illegal and will not run. This is a simple build for anyone to run.
-
Front wheel drive mini car only.
-
May have a simple 4 point cage, no down bars and nothing to the floors. Simple cage to protect the driver.
-
May weld doors 6 inches max or may wire/chain them in 3 spots per door seam.
4 must move gas tank inside in the backseat area or run a fuel cell.
-
Must relocate the battery inside the passenger compartment and mount securely down.
-
Must remove all glass and plastic flammable items. May leave factory dash in the car.
-
may run any tire or wheel combo.
-
jump n run cars may buy into this class and run but cars must be stripped of glass and plastic before pulling on the track. you will not be allowed to pull on the track if the car is not stripped. you will also loose your entry fee by doing so.
This is the simplest build possible, do not overthink these rules because you will not run. Keep this a fun cheap class to run.
any questions contact Timothy Colvett 931-777-9845Rules:
$25 entry fee
*Must be 14 years old or older (14-17 year olds must have a signed parent waiver)
-
Mower must be a factory available lawnmower. No garden tractors. No homemade frames. Only front mounted motors are allowed on mowers. No rear mounted motors allowed.
-
Must be a factory lawn mower engine (Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh, Onan, etc.)
-
Only belt driven mowers allowed.
-
Electric start mower is preferred. You must be able to start your mower from your seat. No lying across the hood of your mower to start it.
-
Battery and fuel tank cannot be in front of the motor. Both must be securely attached. Gas tanks must have a cap. Any mower leaking fuel or that is not safe will be disqualified.
-
You may run a hand throttle to the carb for wide open.
-
All plastic lights must be removed. Mower decks must be removed.
-
mowers must have a factory hood and factory fenders. Plastic hoods may be replaced with metal hoods (factory appearance). Hoods must be secured by bolting, chaining shut or #9 wire.
-
All mowers must have leg and feet guards installed. These guards must be built to protect feet and legs. The outside of guards must be covered with sheet metal. They may be welded or bolted to rear fenders and front frame and footrest area. These guards must be built safe. Any mower with an unsafe leg guard or any guard that falls off during event will be disqualified or not allowed to participate.
10. A back seat bar is required. This is to protect the back of the seat and shoulder area. Horizontal bars at top seat and shoulder height required. This bar may not be any wider than the outside edge of the tire tread, no sharp edges and if its to wide you will cut or not run. 2″x2″1/4″ tubing
11. Clean up your welds! We do not want any participants cut from nasty welds.
12. Frames must be stock. Frames may have repair welds. Frames may have added metal to attach bumpers only, no more than 4 inches back on frame. front bumper is 1 piece of 2″x2″x1/4″ tubing strait across. no points of any kind. not to be any wider then the outside tire tread. dont abuse this rule or you will cut it off to the inside of the tire.
13. Spark plug and carburetor protectors are allowed.
14. Always remember safety first and we don’t want anyone burned.
15. All mowers must use lawn mower type wheels. Rear wheels (rims) may not be any larger than 12 inches in diameter. Tractor treads, cut tires and ATV tires are permitted. Air in tires only. No dual wheels allowed. No wheel covers. Wheel weights are allowed. Tubes, slime, and other sealants are allowed. No foam filled tires allowed. You are allowed to glue or screw tires to rims.
16. Modification or replacement of the drive pulleys is allowed for your desired gearing but4 on 4 max all mowers must be safe and participate at a safe speed. Official decision is final.
17. Transaxles must be factory available transaxles but reinforcing and/or welding of spider gears is allowed.
18. All bumpers (front and rear) must be safe! No pointed or jagged bumpers. Bumpers may be 2″x2″x1/4″ tubing
19. Nothing may protect the tires in any way.
20. you may run a plate to aid in helping mount your motor but nothing overkill or you will cut it. you may also have a halo in front of you engine only to proect your engine.
21. No kickers or braces from front bumper to leg guards.
22. you may weld a rod to brace your tie rods but no spindle bracing
23. All mowers must have number painted on side or back.
24. Mowers must have a roll over seat switch or boat style kill switch.
25. Roll over driver is out of heat. Also, if a driver touches the ground with a hand or a foot, driver is out of the heat.
26. For safety, if a mower rolls over, all drivers must stop and wait until that driver up rights his mower and gets off the track.
27. Helmets required. Long sleeve shirt or fire jacket and long pants required.
28. Two minute time limit to restart mower and to get moving.
29. All other ground rules and event rules will be addressed in the driver meeting.
any questions contact Timothy Colvett 931-777-9845
Stock Rules: 1980 and newer, drivers meeting at 5:30
INSPECTION OPENS AT 12 NOON. CARS MUST PASS INSPECTION AND HAVE A FLAG BY 4:30 OR YOU WILL NOT RUN!
DO NOT READ ANYTHING INTO THESE RULES, JUST READ THE RULES!!
If it doesn’t say you can, YOU CAN’T!
Or you will be loaded, your choice! NO ALL BLACK cars, dark cars must have contrasting letter/numbers. DO NOT paint anywhere on suspension or frame, we will not even inspect your car. – Remove all glass mirrors and plastic. Remove all decking in wagons
COMPETITION RULES:
- Drivers must remain in the vehicle with helmet, seat belt, eye protection and steering wheel on until notified by an official that it is safe to exit the vehicle.
- Driver’s door hits are illegal. If the hit is deemed by the official to be careless or intentional, you will be disqualified. If you use your driver’s door as a defense, we will not enforce the rules.
- No hot rodding in the pits. Keep it at an idle.
- Any open door will be cause disqualification, you are allowed one fire, and then second fire will be cause for disqualification. You may return in later rounds.
- Sandbagging is not tolerated and will be strictly enforced. Locking up the brakes prior to a hit for anything other than a driver’s door will be a cause for disqualification. The fans pay to see a show, put one on for them!
- You must make AGGRESSIVE HIT every 60 seconds.
- You will be given ample time for restarts. We do not use the clock exclusively. We try to work with you if you are hung up. Hitters get more time than sandbaggers.
- This is not a team event; team driving will not be tolerated. if the derby is stopped for sandbagging you will get a pink S sprayed on your car.
- Any questions, CALL FIRST. Don’t assume anything. The Officials decision is final.
Body - No sedagons, no creasing or frame shaping, forming or folding allowed.
- Hood must be open for inspection.
- Wagons ONLY if you remove your tail gate may have 6 places of wire 2 strands max must be behind axle sheet metal to sheet metal only roof to floor.
- Anything can be removed, NOTHING can be added.
- All cars competing must have a hood on at all times to run.
- Fasten trunks, hoods, tail gates in 6 places, 2x2x2 angle,2×2 flat steel, chain or 2 strands of #9 wire (Sheet metal to sheet metal only)or 6 locations using ½ bolts with store bought washers through the drip rail in the trunk.
- Door seams may have no more than 12” of weld, vertical seam only. 2” x 1/4” strap.
2026 Full-Size Street Stock Weld Rules
2026 Bonestock Compact
Full-Size Bone Stock Rules
MWFA Rules
COMING SOON