Rules / Registration
2024 FULL-SIZE BUILDERS CLASS
Mad Dog Demolition Derby Modified Full-Size
Oklahoma Boys Promotions L.L.C.
Entries in the Demolition Derby are open to men and women who have a valid Driver’s License. The Following regulations shall be observed for safety and fairness to all. Orderly conduct is required of all drivers and pit persons. If not, any driver and or people affiliated with that car will be evicted without ANY refunds or prize money. Misconduct may result in being banned from present and/ or future participation. Any driver or crew member not complying with any one of the rules will be disqualified. Crew members are the responsibility of the driver.
Entries:
1. Each driver must be at least 18 years old.
2. Each driver must furnish their own car. The driver that is registered to the car, must drive that car in the heat assigned to them. Unless the officials are notified of a driver change and approve it.
3. Hearse, ambulances, jeeps, trucks, convertibles, mini vans, SUVs, or commercial vehicles will not be allowed.
4. All cars will have to pass inspection before the tech line closes.
5. Prior to the start of the driver’s meeting, each driver must sign an entry and a release form.
Participation Rules:
1. Drivers may maneuver either forward or backwards.
2. Hitting an opponent’s car in the driver’s door is not allowed and will be cause for disqualification.
3. Must make a damaging hit (from a spectator’s point of view) every 60 seconds. No team driving or sandbagging.
4. All drivers must attend the drivers meeting prior to start time.
5. All drivers must remain in their cars until the car is removed from the track.
Unless an official removes the driver.
6. No driver or pitman under the influence of alcohol will be permitted to enter the arena or to participate.
7. Any driver not in place when called upon will be disqualified.
8. Pitmen are not allowed in the arena during a heat.
9. No one will be allowed to stay in the pit area without a pit pass.
10. No one under the age of 12 will be allowed in the pit area. Different events have different age limits. Please ask the promoter for the show that you are attending.
11. Cars may be inspected at any time for reinforcements, etc. Top 3 finalist will be subject to reinspection after the finish of the finals.
12. Car and driver in the inspection area only.
13. Cars will be inspected on or off the trailers.
Preparation Of Cars:
1. Vehicles may only be modified in the following ways. Any modifications not
specifically authorized by the rules are strictly prohibited.
2. Do not read into the rules! Just read and follow the rules! Not following the rules will result in you being loaded. Your choice!
3. The drivers name should be above the number on the front doors, or you can run a number sign. The number sign cannot reinforce the car. No obscenities or allowed.
4. Concrete, metal plating, wood, foam, or pins in the frame will be considered
added ballast and will result in the car being loaded.
Welding Exceptions:
1. All cars must be welded 5” on 5” off with a max of 3” wide 1/8” thick strap. This includes doors and the trunk lid. Also includes the tailgates on wagons. The driver’s door may be welded solid.
2. No added material inside the car with the exception of the cage components.
3. No frame welding is allowed other than in the specified areas.
Drivers Compartment:
1. 4-point square cages only. All cage material must not exceed 6” material. All
cage material must be on the inside of the car compartment. No external door
bars allowed. All cage materials must be 4” off the floor, this includes the trans
tunnel. Gussets only in the interior of four-point cage. All halo bars are allowed to have (2) 1/2” bolts with 1/2” washers to attach to the roof. Halo bars may go to the top of the cage side bars only, in the vertical position. Material not to exceed 2”x6” rectangular tubing. Can have a total of (4) down bars from the bottom of the side cage bars to the top of the frame rail. These bars cannot touch the Crush boxes, “S” curves, or any other curve in the frame. Down bars cannot exceed 4”x 4” material.
2. Gas tank protectors can only be 24” wide and must be 4” off the floor. Gas tank protector halo must be 6” away from the roof minimum and must be inside of the window opening. Gas tank protector can touch speaker decking sheet metal, but the sheet metal cannot be altered or removed. Gas tank protector halo can be connected to the roof halo, but material must be inside the car. Max material is 2”x6” and these bars cannot go any further back then the backside of the gas tank protector. Unibody cars can run (2) down bars from the bottom of the gas tank protector to the top of the frame or sheet metal instead of using the halo down bars. (Example for Mopars). Call if you don’t understand this! All cage material must be 6” away from the firewall and 6” from the inside rear door seam. There must be a 6” gap between cage sidebars and rear hump sheet-metal on all two door cars. Side bars not to exceed 62” in total length.
3. No rear window bars allowed.
4. Station wagon decking must be removed.
5. Window seams may be rolled over and welded. No added material.
6. Gas tanks are to be placed on the gas tank protector. 20-gallon tanks max. Must be secured. No plastic boat tanks allowed. No fuel leaks!
7. Transmission coolers and oil coolers may be placed inside the car and secured. All fans on coolers must have a cover for safety. Cannot context to frame!
8. Battery boxes may be in the passenger side floorboard or attached to your cage. Must be secured and covered. Max of (2) batteries. Cannot connect to frame or crossmember.
9. All aftermarket straight column steering is allowed. 03 and up cars must run rack and pinion steering if that’s what came with that car.
10. All aftermarket brake/gas pedal set ups are allowed and can only bolt to the floor sheet-metal. Cannot attach to frame or crossmember. Cannot strengthen the car.
11. You are allowed 3 locations of #9 wire, builders choice. These are (2) loops per locations, total of 4 strands per location. No chain or cables allowed.
12. All factory gas tanks must be removed from factory locations.
Bumpers:
1. OEM bumpers and homemade bumpers are allowed. Homemade bumpers not to exceed 8” material. Back of the bumper to the front of the point of the bumper not to exceed 14” deep. All points must have a base point of 36” wide minimum. Replica prefab bumpers are allowed. Loaded OEM bumpers allowed.
2. OEM bumpers may be used on the rear of the car or a piece of 4” x 4” tubing or 4” pipe can be used. The ends cannot be capped. Must not exceed the width of the rear of the car. If it’s unsafe you will cut it off. No pointy’s or replicas pointy’s on the rear of the car.
3. All bumpers may be loaded.
4. Switching bumpers from make to make is allowed. (Example Chevy to Ford).
5. You may weld the rear bumper straight to the frame or follow the rules for the front bumper if using a shock.
6. You may weld the factory bumper bracket to the frame. Must be in factory
location and bolted to frame with factory bolts.
7. You may hardnose bumpers.
8. If you choose to hardnose, no shock can be used at all. (Follow the shortening frame rules found in the frame section).
9. You may cut the frame square to fit the bumper if you choose to hardnose.
(Follow the shortening frame rules found in the frame section).
10. No attaching bumpers or frame to body except in specified ways. (Example is #9 wire rule)
11. (1) 10” x 4” x 1/4 thick flat plate may attach from the back of the front bumper on the exterior side of the frame. If running this plate for a bracket, all factory shocks and brackets must be removed.
12. Bumper height not to exceed 22” from the bottom of the front bumper to the ground and must be a minimum of 14” from the ground to the bottom of the rear bumper or frame. Bumpers must be in stock location. The bumper must be completely in front of the frame rails. No part of the bumper may extend back past the front most part of the frame rails.
Body Bolts:
1. All body bolts are allowed to be changed to 3/4” all thread.
2. All body bolts or all thread must be straight vertical rod only, no bends or angle pieces. Must have a 1” metal spacer minimum per location changed. Spacers cannot be any larger than a factory body spacer size (2”). All bottom nuts must be inside of the frame. Absolutely no welding allowed to mount body bolts. Body bolt locations cannot connect to another body bolt location. No welding the spacers to the frame! Only (2) of the k-frame bolts can be changed in a Mopar.
3. Body components must be direct bolt up only. Do not put a sedan body on a
wagon frame, etc.
4. (2) 1” pieces of all thread are allowed at the core support. Must be through the top side of the frame or bracket only. All thread can weld to the frame but not the body. 1” minimum space between core support and frame. All spacers cannot exceed 2” material. Cannot weld core support spacer to frame or core support.
5. Factory stamped washers on the inside of the frame. (1) 3”x 3” x 1/4” plate on the topside per body bolt location. Plates cannot touch other plates.
6. Do not add body bolts.
Hood:
1. Entire Hood most open for inspection.
2. Must be in stock location.
3. You are allowed (6) total hood bolts in any configuration. The core support bolts count as hood bolts if they come through the hood. No hood bolts bigger than 3/4” all thread is allowed. (1) 3” x 3” x 1/4” plate per hood bolt location. Plate must be on the top side of the hood.
4. 1” all thread hood bolts or allowed to connect to the frame at the core support.
Firewall hood bolts cannot connect to the frame in anyway.
5. Hood must cover the entire fan area.
6. There must be a hole big enough in the hood for a fire extinguisher to be used in case of a fire.
Frame:
1. Top frame seams, a -arms forward, can be welded. 1/2” bead only with a single pass.
2. Cold tilting, cut and tilting, and re-stubbed cars are allowed. 03 and newer cars must tilt in the side rails only. 14” of weld to tilt. If you cut and tilt at the box, DO NOT FOLD THE TABS OVER AND WELD THEM DOWN!! NO FRAME SHAPING!! If car is cold tilted, the 14” of weld can be used on the top side frame seam behind the a -arm. (Example old iron gm). If you cut and tilt, then you cannot use the 14” of extra frame seam welding. If you don’t understand call!
3. Rear frame maybe dimpled or notched in 2 places per frame rail.
4. Frames maybe shaped on rear humps only. Wheel side of frame only. This is the only frame shaping allowed period!
5. You may shorten any new iron car up to the front of the core support hole. The factory core support tab must remain in the factory location, with a factory weld. Remainder of tab can be welded to the bumper. Please call if you don’t
understand this rule.
6. Old iron cars may shorten to the front of the core support hole on the frame or bumper bracket. Any old iron car that has the core support hole in the bracket must leave the bracket in the factory location, with the factory bolts. Bracket and frame can be shortened to the front of the core support hole on the bracket. Both the bracket and frame can be welded to the bumper. Bumper bracket can also weld to the frame. If the bumper is hardnosed to the frame and bracket, the shock must be removed completely.
7. Frame repair plates are at the discretion of the promoter for the show that you are running. Please call the promoter for the show that you are running!
8. You may restub a car using only 14” of weld, (1)1/2” bead, with no added material per frame rail. All restubs must be make for make. 03 and newer stubs can only be used in 03 and newer cars. All sub car restubs must be direct bolt up!! Have questions please call. All 03 and newer cars must be restubbed in the side frame rails.
9. Any metal found inside the frames will result in the car being disqualified and it will be loaded.
10. After any car passes inspection, you will not be allowed to add repair plates to the frame or body in any way! Do not weld your frame or body after heat.
Remember cars will be reinspected.
Suspension:
1. You may change springs to a stiffer OEM spring. Doubled springs are OK if in the rear.
2. Shocks and Suspension must main stock! No all thread in shock locations.
3. You may change upper a -arms to a stamp steel car a-arm. This means cut the bar out of the a-arm and run individual bolts if the car you are running came that way factory. Adapter plates are allowed if the car has a factory steering box location on the frame rail. 03 and newer must run the rack and pinion style steering. All steering components must remain stock, or stock replacement, in stock locations for all cars!
4. Upper a -arms may be welded down using (2) pieces of 2” x 3” x 1/4” strap per upper a-arm per side of a-arm. Half the a-arm strap must weld to the upper a-arm and the other to the wheel side of the frame. Push this rule you lose it completely. Lower a-arm cannot be welded to the frame in anyway. Stock spindles only. Must be a car spindle!
5. Leaf springs- 7 leaf total pack per side. No flat stacks! Must have 1” stagger
between leafs on both sides of the spring. No leaf’s exceeding 3/8” thickness. (6) clamps per side. Not to be exceed 2”x4”x 1/4” thickness flat strap and can use (2) 3/8” bolts per clamp. Hangers must remain stock but 1” of the hanger can be welded to the frame per hanger. Hanger and spring must bolt together. Springs cannot be welded together. Must pivot!
6. Rear suspension may be chained down with a max of 3/8” chain. One loop from frame rail to rearend per side.
7. Rear control arms may be changed. Can lengthen or shorten. May be loaded.
You may also make your own control arms out of 2” x 2” x1/4” tubing. Aftermarket control arms are allowed. If these are used to strengthen the car you will change them.
8. Watt’s Conversion kits allowed but only the lower brackets can be welded to the frame. Brackets cannot strengthen the car. 3”x3”x1/4” tubing max for lower
brackets and can only weld to the inside of the frame, not the top or bottom of the frame rail. Everything else must be bolted in place.
9. Factory package tray must remain in the car, for that car.
Drivetrain:
1. (4) 3/8” threaded rod and (2) 3” wide straps can be used to hold the radiator in. Can be bolted or welded to core support. This is to hold the radiator in the car, not to reinforce it!
2. Pinion brakes are allowed. Must work.
3. Can use any rubber engine mount. Mounts may be welded to frame only. Mount to frame not to exceed 8“x 8“x 1/4“material. You may extend off the back of the frame cradle but nothing excessive, 1/2-inch flat plate only. (Example SBC in caddy or mopar). Cannot weld the lower engine cradle to the frame or to the mount.
4. OEM crossmembers or 2“x 2“x 1/4“tubing or 2” pipe can be used to make a
crossmember. You may use (1) 3“x 2“x 1/4“x 8“ in length piece of angle iron to
bolt the tubing or crossmember to. Can use (2) 1/2” bolts per side to bolt the
crossmember to the angle iron bracket. (1) Side of the angle iron can be welded
to the frame you can only have (1) angle iron piece per side frame rail. If using
angle iron, factory ears must be cut off the frame.
5. You may have (2) 5/16 chains, (1) per side attaching from the engine block or
cradle to the frame. Chains cannot go any further than the front of the water
pump in no further back than the back of the valve covers. Chains can weld to
the frame with only two links.
6. Slider driveshafts are allowed.
7. All rear ends must be a stock 5 lug and can be jigged for the car you are running. Rearends can have a back brace only. Brace not to exceed 2”x4”x1/4”. Brace must be 4” away from the axle flanges. This is the only bracing allowed! Rearend cannot reinforce the car in any way.
8. Steel bell housing and ultra-bells are allowed. Factory cased transmissions only. All transmissions and Skelton style braces must set on the top side of the
crossmember only and cannot lock in. If the transmission brace is made to lock-in it will be cut or removed. Skelton style transmission braces are the only trans braces allowed. Can be chained to the crossmember with a max of (1) 3/8” chain, single loop. Transmission brace cannot be bolted or welded to crossmember. If not running a transmission brace you may bolt the stock transmission to the crossmember using a rubber trans mount. Relief cuts must be made if running a brace or bell to the trans tunnel. These are to help you not break an expensive transmission, not to reinforce the car!
9. Lower engine cradles are allowed 1/2” thickness Max. Mid plates and front plates can be ran, also 1/2” thickness Max. Cannot be any wider than the engine and cannot be any taller than the valve covers. Cannot touch the frame or sheet metal at any time. All sheet metal must be removed if running a mid-plate. Pulley protectors are allowed but if running pulley Protector, the entire sway bar must be removed. No distributor protectors allowed!
10. All DOT approved tires are allowed. No solid tires or foam filled.
11. No wheel/tire under 12 inches or over a 15 inch will be allowed.
12. Wheels can have small centers in them. 3/8” thickness max. Lip protectors and valve stem protectors are allowed.
13. All brakes must work.
14. Radiators must remain in the stock factory location. Can have water and or
antifreeze only.
15. Air conditioner condensing core may be placed in front of the radiator. No guards or expanded metal allowed.
16. Header protector and carb protectors are allowed. Again, no distributor
protectors!
17. 03 and up Fords, mercury, and Lincoln please read! The bolt in steel lower
engine cradles used to mount the engines are OK but cannot tie to the frame
rails in any way. Aluminum stock cradle must be ran.
Body:
1. No Sedagons.
2. Deck lid must be 100% in stock location. Must use a trunk lid off a car, not a
hood. You may tuck the trunk with a single 90° bend. You are allowed (2) 3/4”
pieces of all thread through the deck lid to the frame. (1) per rail. These must go through a factory body bolt hole and can go to the top side of the frame only.
Must be vertical. V – wedging is allowed, rear corners must be vertical. Speaker
decking must be in stock location or can be removed entirely. If speaker decking is removed, you cannot weld the truck lid to the floor and make a seam.
3. Removal of trunk lid is allowed.
4. A front window bar must be ran on each car. Minimum of 1 bar, max of 2 bars. Bars cannot be more than 3” wide and can only attached to sheet-metal. This is for safety only.
5. Anything can be removed; nothing can be added unless specified in the rules.
6. You are allowed (8) 3/8” bolts per fender and (8) 3/8” bolts in the hood. All with a max of 1 1/2” fender washers.
7. Body creasing is allowed. Sheet metal only.
Rust:
1. Rusted area must be removed, 1/2” overlap from new metal to old metal. New rust patches must not overlap. You must butt weld, using your stitch weld. Don’t stagger the welds on two patches to have one continuous weld between two patches.
2. New material not to exceed factory thickness.
3. Must be welded 1” on 1” off -abuse it, you’ll lose it – zero tolerance.
4. No rust repair to frames. That’s for the promoter to decide if you can use a repair plate at that location.
OFFICIAL STATEMENTS:
All Judges Decisions are final. No refunds of entry fees will be allowed. Please come legal so we do not have problems!
For all Technical questions Please call the following:
OKLAHOMA BOYS PROMOTIONS: John Reeves 620-870-0254
Unified Builders Compact Rules
Mad Dog Demolition Derby Compact Class
Oklahoma Boys Promotions L.L.C.
These are rules for you to follow, not to manipulate, or to find away around! If these rules do not state you can do something, then you can’t! No exceptions. If anything at ALL is found in the frame you will not get a chance to cut, it is automatic refusal into the show, it is not for debate! No vans, suvs, or mini trucks. No v8s. All cars must fit the wheelbase of 110”. All trash and debris must be removed from the car. Must have a visible roof sign or your number visible on both sides of the car. No profanity lettered on cars.
1.) CAGE- all cage material can be no bigger than 2×6 rectangle. A 4-pt. cage will be allowed. With a vertical halo. May have a gas tank protector no wider than 12” off the center of the seat bar each way making it 24” wide total. You may run 2 kicker bars from the vertical part of the halo back to the top of the gas tank protector on both sides. This will protect the tanks from anything coming in. All cage material must be at least 4” off the floor. Both door
bars can only go 6” past the outside door seam on the front doors to the back of the car. Door bars and dash bar must be a minimum of 6” away from the firewall. The halo bars may go all the way to the floor or frame and be welded in. You can also have 2 other down bars from cage to frame or body between the front door seams going no further forward than the outside front door seam. A front window is required. May go from the roof to the dash
bar or the roof to the firewall but not both and cannot be connected to the halo. A rear window bar will be allowed. Must run from the roof to the front trunk seam and may go 3” to either side of the seam allowing a total of 6”. This cannot attach to the halo.
2.) FRAME- No welding allowed on the frame. You may be allowed to pre curl the rear frame section if you wish. Cradle bolts maybe changed to ¾” allthread running from bottom of the cradle through the frame. Must be fastened with flat stamped washers and ¾” nut. Must be flush with top of the frame. Only the front two at the core support may run up through the hood as body bolts. You are allowed (1) 3/8” chain per side from unibody to cradle. 1 loop only welded on each end. You CANNOT weld the loops together.
3.) Body- driver’s door may be welded solid. Drivers’ doors may be plated or wrapped. Can not go any further than 3” past the front door seams. All other doors must be welded 5 on 5 off. The trunk seam may be welded 5 on 5 off as well. All body panels may be creased but no doubling of seams. All body bolts may be changed to ¾” body bolts. Using bolts or allthread. Must be secured with stamped washers and nuts. All washers and nuts on the bottom side
must be inside the frame not across the bottom of the frame. The top of the body bolt inside the cab or trunk of the car may have (1) 3x3x1/4 plate to serve as a washer with (1) ¾” nut. All body bolts must have the factory rubber bushing or a 1” body spacer of some sort. Each wheel well opening may have a total of (5) 3/8” bolts with washers and nuts to bolt the wheel wells together. The body cannot be welded to the frame in any fashion. This includes the unibody to the k frame. (2) pieces of ¾” allthread may run through the trunk.
These may run through the frame being used as a body bolt or may be ran sheet metal to sheet metal.
4.) DRIVETRAIN- engines must be 6cyl or smaller. No v8s! Engines and transmission of choice otherwise. May have headers. May have carb conversions. May have a simple carb protector must stay between the headers and can not strengthen the car in anyway. A lower engine cradle may be used for RWD cars. Must bolt to the block of the engine and can only be mounted using a factory oem rubber lower mount of some sort. Only a simple
cradle maybe used. No pulley protector, no front or midplates. This is for mounting purposes only. Crossmembers on rwd cars must be an OEM crossmember of some sort. Can use a piece of angle 2”x2”x ¼” x 6” long welded to the frame for the crossmember to bolt using 1 ½” bolt per side. Slider drive shafts are welcome. Aftermarket pedals and shifters
allowed. Transmission coolers allowed.
5.) SUSPENSION AND STEERING- Front struts must be stock appearing! They may be welded up, stuffed, and reinforced on the inside. Custom or aftermarket steering columns are allowed. The upper and lower control arms and front wheel hubs must remain factory! A arms may be welded down using (2) 2x3x1/4” straps per upper a arm. Leaf springs must be of factory oem origin. May have a total of 7 leafs per side. The leafs must taper 1” starting
with the main leaf. May have 3 clamps per side of the rearend totaling 6 per side of the car. Clamps must be ¼” material 2” wide by 4” long max and using (2) 3/8” bolts per pack. Coil spring cars may double the rear coils. May have 1 3/8” chain per side to set and adjust the ride height.
6.) BUMPERS- You may run after market bumpers or homemade bumpers. This includes pointys. If running a pointy factory or fabricated it cannot be any bigger the 13” from back of the bumper to the point. The point must down grade of 32”. Bumpers cannot be any taller than 8” at any location. You may shorten the frame to 1” in front of the core support mount and hard-nosed the bumper to the frame. This means the main frame; it cannot attach to the cradle on Fwd cars in any way. You will be allowed a 4” wide x 6” long x ¼” thick bumper bracket per side. Bumper bracket must be on the wheel side of the frame rail and must have a ½” inspection hole. If there isn’t one, you will cut one. There CANNOT be any square tube added to the back of the bumper and being inserted inside the frame. If this is found, you will not get the chance to cut and will not run period! All bumper mounting rules apply to the rear bumper as well.
7.) HOODS- all cars must have a hood! No exceptions. The front core support mounts may be changed to ¾” all thread. Using stamped washers and nuts. This piece of allthread may run up through the hood and be used as a hood bolt. You may have 2 other hood bolts per side. Maybe be all thread or angle iron hood clips with (1) ½” bolt per clip. Angle can only be 2x2x1/4” by 4” long. Hoods must have an inspection hole. If center of hood is cut out, you may bolt the Sheetmetal back with up to (10) 3/8” bolts.
8.) WHEELS AND TIRES- 15” wheel and tire or smaller may be ran. Wheels may have a small 8” multi center. No full center and no beadlocks. May have a 1” lip guard and a valve stem protector. May run solid tires on the rear of FWD. NO FOAM filled.
9.) REARENDS- any OEM 5 lug rearend may be ran on Rwd cars. May have a simple back brace. No full braces, no axle savers etc. Pinion brakes are allowed.
10.) #9wire- You may have 3 spots of 9 wire. Where and how it is ran is up to the driver. These can only be 2 loops making a 4strand twist. May have a bolt squeezing the twist together in the middle. No cables or chains may be used.
11.) Gas tanks- aftermarket tanks are allowed and preferred. Mounted on the gas tank protector that is allowed is also preferred. Factory tanks will be allowed to run if they are metal! No plastic tanks. Will be allowed to run under the car only if they are in front of the rear axle and fully secured. If this becomes an issue, we will not allow it any further.
12.) Repair plates- pre ran cars and only pre ran cars will be allowed a max of (2) 4”x6”x ¼” plates per frame rail, not the cradles. There must be a visible bend or damage for these plates to be utilized. A ½” hole must be put in the plate for us to see through for inspection or you will be asked to cut one, no exceptions. Any other damage repair will be at the promoter of that shows discretion. That doesn’t necessarily mean it’ll be ok at the next show. Any questions contact the promoter of the show.
If it is not listed in this set of rules again, do not do it! If you have questions, ask first. All judges’ decisions are final. Any arguments or fighting and you will not run and be asked to leave. No one other than the driver are allowed at the inspection of the car. You will get (2) attempts to fix the car. If not done how you were asked in those (2) attempts, you will be asked to load the car and not run.
Oklahoma Boys Promotions
Wade Daniels: 620-778-0119
John Reeves: 620-870-0254
Stock Full Size Rules
Oklahoma Boys Promotions L.L.C.
General Rules and Regulations:
1. Any American made car can run with the following exceptions. Full-Size cars with the wheelbase of at least 113” or more. No 4×4’s, Imperials, Ambulances, Hearses, Trucks or Limousines.
2. All driver’s must sign driver’s paperwork before being inspected or they will not run.
3. Driver’s must wear a seat belt, helmet, long sleeve shirt, pants (Fire Suit highly recommended).
4. All drivers must attend the pit meeting before the event.
5. No drivers are allowed any alcohol or drugs before the event, If found under the influence while wearing a drivers band you will be disqualified for the remainder of the event.
6. Any complaints that a driver has about another car prior to the start of your heat will need to be addressed in the drivers meeting in specifics. If nothing is said, we don’t want to hear about it after the show.
7. DO NOT paint anywhere on suspension, frame, or interior of car.
8. No driver substitutions, only one driver per entered car.
9. Judges decisions are final!!
Show Rules:
1. You have 1 minute to make an aggressive hit, After 1 minute that car is
disqualified.
2. For safety, DO NOT HIT IN THE DRIVER’S DOOR!!
3. You will be given 2 fires 1st one we put out and the 2nd one you are done for that round.
4. Rollovers, you may keep going as long as car is deemed safe.
5. No holding or pinning, you must back up and show day light. You may not pin to win
Car Preparation: IF IT DOESN’T SAY YOU CAN SPECIFICALLY DO SOMETHING THEN YOU CAN’T
1. No fresh paint or undercoating on the frames at all. No buffing or grinding frames or bodies except where welding is specifically allowed in the rules.
2. All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.
3. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from the car before arriving to the derby.
4. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
5. You MUST have a number in bright colors on each front door and may have a sign on the roof of your car with car number on it for recognition or car.
6. Batteries must be moved to passenger front floorboard. They must be properly secured and covered.
7. All cars must have working brakes, If the car is not able to exhibit the ability to stop, it will not be inspected.
8. NO welding other than what is mentioned in this set of rules. If your car is found with any weld other than what is allowed and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction, you and your car will not run.
Body:
1. Remove all glass mirrors and plastic. Remove all decking in wagons, cars must be swept clean of all debris before you get to the derby.
2. No sedagons fresh or preran, zero crease enhancement, zero sheet metal or frame shaping, forming or folding.
3. Deck lids must be in stock location. You may tuck trunk with a single 90-degree bend. Fasten trunk or tailgate with 4 places 2 strands of #9 wire or 3/8” chain.
4. Anything can be removed; nothing can be added.
5. Hoods get one hood clip 3” long 2”x 2” x3/16” with one 1⁄2” bolt and nut per side. (2) 5/8” bolts total thru hood in firewall area and 2 core support bolts thru the hood to top of frame only with 4” washes.
6. You may weld doors total of 6 inches on each vertical seem only 2”x 1/8” strap. Drivers’ door may be welded solid.
7. Body mounts and spacers to remain stock and in place. If they are broken or rusted out, a single piece #9 wire may be substituted. No body bolt changing allowed.
8. #9 wire, chain or bar required in front windshield.
Frames
1. No welding on frames allowed.
2. No suspension modifications allowed, must remain strictly stock.
3. You may use 2 twists in spring spacers per side (store bought, no homemade).
4. You may use a single strand #9 wire to hold coil spring to rear end and leaf sprung cars may use 4 single strands #9 wire as leaf clamps.
Tires/wheels:
1. Tires no bigger than 16 inches, no split rims, no studded tire, doubled tires are ok No foam filled.
Drivetrain: any drivetrain allowed with the following criteria
1. Only the lower engine mounts may be welded to the crossmember. You may use two 1⁄2” thick spacers to raise engine to clear steering components, may not exceed rubber mount area. You may extend off back of crossmember but nothing excessive, 1⁄2’ flat plate only (example sbc in Caddy, Mopar, Ford).
2. No tranny protectors, stock mounts only, stock crossmembers to car being ran only.
3. Rearend swaps allowed: No bracing, no welding, no re-enforcement. Max axle size 31 spline. Must be a direct bolt-in. gears maybe welded.
4. you may run 1 piece of 3/8” chain from rearend around frame OR 2 strands of #9 wire from rearend to frame, nothing thru the body, nothing thru the frame (#9 wire 2 loops, 4 strands together).
5. Floor shifters allowed, gas/brake pedals allowed, headers allowed. (none may strengthen the car).
6. No cradles, protectors, skid plates no aftermarket parts of this nature at all.
7. You may swap engines, example chevy in a ford.
8. Slider drive shafts are allowed.
9. Aftermarket steering column ok, no hydro steering, aftermarket pedal and shifter ok.
Driver’s Compartment:
1. 4-point square cage 6” max material. 6” away from fire wall inside of car not inside of door skins. Side bars not to exceed 62” in total length, with one 2” x 3” down tube to sheet metal only per side. Halo bar allowed to back seat bar or floor sheet metal.
2. Gas Tank Protector Gas tank protector is allowed no wider than 24 inches. Must be at least 1 inch away from the rear package tray. Must run straight back from the center of the cage and must be a minimum of 4 inches off the trans tunnel. Can run 2 support bars off the halo to gas tank protector to support it. MUST BE INSIDE THE CAR
3. Driver’s door must be padded.
4. Gas tank must be removed cannot use factory tank. Battery must be moved and secured to passenger side floorboard.
5. Trans coolers allowed, must be mounted inside of cage are.
Bumpers:
1. You may weld on any OEM stock bumper, you can stuff OEM stock bumber, you may weld stock bumper bracket for the car or the bumper to the frame 4 inches from back of bumper, single pass only. 1a. In addition, you may put 4 one-inch welds on back side of bracket or to weld shock inside frame. (example Crown Vics). All bumper material longer than 4 inches must be removed.
2. Shocks can be collapsed and welded, all shocks and brackets in stock location and extended one inch in front of frame.
➢ All bumper brackets and shocks must be in stock location.
OR
➢ You may shorten to one inch in front of the core support space and hard nose with no shocks or brackets on car.
OR
➢ You may chain, one piece of chain per side BOLTED from the mount to mount to hold on the bumper.
Pre Rans:
You may have (2) 4” x 4” x 1⁄4’ plate per side where visibly bend (must show visibly bend) not just because its pre ran.
Oklahoma Boys Promotions
Matt Alban: 620-515-4763
John Reeves: 620-870-0254
024 FULL-SIZE BUILDERS CLASS
Mad Dog Demolition Derby Modified Full-Size
Oklahoma Boys Promotions L.L.C.
Entries in the Demolition Derby are open to men and women who have a valid Driver’s License. The Following regulations shall be observed for safety and fairness to all. Orderly conduct is required of all drivers and pit persons. If not, any driver and or people affiliated with that car will be evicted without ANY refunds or prize money. Misconduct may result in being banned from present and/ or future participation. Any driver or crew member not complying with any one of the rules will be disqualified. Crew members are the responsibility of the driver.
Entries:
1. Each driver must be at least 18 years old.
2. Each driver must furnish their own car. The driver that is registered to the car, must drive that car in the heat assigned to them. Unless the officials are notified of a driver change and approve it.
3. Hearse, ambulances, jeeps, trucks, convertibles, mini vans, SUVs, or commercial vehicles will not be allowed.
4. All cars will have to pass inspection before the tech line closes.
5. Prior to the start of the driver’s meeting, each driver must sign an entry and a release form.
Participation Rules:
1. Drivers may maneuver either forward or backwards.
2. Hitting an opponent’s car in the driver’s door is not allowed and will be cause for disqualification.
3. Must make a damaging hit (from a spectator’s point of view) every 60 seconds. No team driving or sandbagging.
4. All drivers must attend the drivers meeting prior to start time.
5. All drivers must remain in their cars until the car is removed from the track.
Unless an official removes the driver.
6. No driver or pitman under the influence of alcohol will be permitted to enter the arena or to participate.
7. Any driver not in place when called upon will be disqualified.
8. Pitmen are not allowed in the arena during a heat.
9. No one will be allowed to stay in the pit area without a pit pass.
10. No one under the age of 12 will be allowed in the pit area. Different events have different age limits. Please ask the promoter for the show that you are attending.
11. Cars may be inspected at any time for reinforcements, etc. Top 3 finalist will be subject to reinspection after the finish of the finals.
12. Car and driver in the inspection area only.
13. Cars will be inspected on or off the trailers.
Preparation Of Cars:
1. Vehicles may only be modified in the following ways. Any modifications not
specifically authorized by the rules are strictly prohibited.
2. Do not read into the rules! Just read and follow the rules! Not following the rules will result in you being loaded. Your choice!
3. The drivers name should be above the number on the front doors, or you can run a number sign. The number sign cannot reinforce the car. No obscenities or allowed.
4. Concrete, metal plating, wood, foam, or pins in the frame will be considered
added ballast and will result in the car being loaded.
Welding Exceptions:
1. All cars must be welded 5” on 5” off with a max of 3” wide 1/8” thick strap. This includes doors and the trunk lid. Also includes the tailgates on wagons. The driver’s door may be welded solid.
2. No added material inside the car with the exception of the cage components.
3. No frame welding is allowed other than in the specified areas.
Drivers Compartment:
1. 4-point square cages only. All cage material must not exceed 6” material. All cage material must be on the inside of the car compartment. No external door bars allowed. All cage materials must be 4” off the floor, this includes the trans tunnel. Gussets only in the interior of four-point cage. All halo bars are allowed to have (2) 1/2” bolts with 1/2” washers to attach to the roof. Halo bars may go to the top of the cage side bars only, in the vertical position. Material not to exceed 2”x6” rectangular tubing. Can have a total of (4) down bars from the bottom of the side cage bars to the top of the frame rail. These bars cannot touch the Crush boxes, “S” curves, or any other curve in the frame. Down bars cannot exceed 4”x 4” material.
2. Gas tank protectors can only be 24” wide and must be 4” off the floor. Gas tank protector halo must be 6” away from the roof minimum and must be inside of the window opening. Gas tank protector can touch speaker decking sheet metal, but the sheet metal cannot be altered or removed. Gas tank protector halo can be connected to the roof halo, but material must be inside the car. Max material is 2”x6” and these bars cannot go any further back then the backside of the gas tank protector. Unibody cars can run (2) down bars from the bottom of the gas tank protector to the top of the frame or sheet metal instead of using the halo down bars. (Example for Mopars). Call if you don’t understand this! All cage material must be 6” away from the firewall and 6” from the inside rear door seam. There must be a 6” gap between cage sidebars and rear hump sheet-metal on all two door cars. Side bars not to exceed 62” in total length.
3. No rear window bars allowed.
4. Station wagon decking must be removed.
5. Window seams may be rolled over and welded. No added material.
6. Gas tanks are to be placed on the gas tank protector. 20-gallon tanks max. Must be secured. No plastic boat tanks allowed. No fuel leaks!
7. Transmission coolers and oil coolers may be placed inside the car and secured. All fans on coolers must have a cover for safety. Cannot context to frame!
8. Battery boxes may be in the passenger side floorboard or attached to your cage. Must be secured and covered. Max of (2) batteries. Cannot connect to frame or crossmember.
9. All aftermarket straight column steering is allowed. 03 and up cars must run rack and pinion steering if that’s what came with that car.
10. All aftermarket brake/gas pedal set ups are allowed and can only bolt to the floor sheet-metal. Cannot attach to frame or crossmember. Cannot strengthen the car.
11. You are allowed 3 locations of #9 wire, builders choice. These are (2) loops per locations, total of 4 strands per location. No chain or cables allowed.
12. All factory gas tanks must be removed from factory locations.
Bumpers:
1. OEM bumpers and homemade bumpers are allowed. Homemade bumpers not to exceed 8” material. Back of the bumper to the front of the point of the bumper not to exceed 14” deep. All points must have a base point of 36” wide minimum. Replica prefab bumpers are allowed. Loaded OEM bumpers allowed.
2. OEM bumpers may be used on the rear of the car or a piece of 4” x 4” tubing or 4” pipe can be used. The ends cannot be capped. Must not exceed the width of the rear of the car. If it’s unsafe you will cut it off. No pointy’s or replicas pointy’s on the rear of the car.
3. All bumpers may be loaded.
4. Switching bumpers from make to make is allowed. (Example Chevy to Ford).
5. You may weld the rear bumper straight to the frame or follow the rules for the front bumper if using a shock.
6. You may weld the factory bumper bracket to the frame. Must be in factory
location and bolted to frame with factory bolts.
7. You may hardnose bumpers.
8. If you choose to hardnose, no shock can be used at all. (Follow the shortening frame rules found in the frame section).
9. You may cut the frame square to fit the bumper if you choose to hardnose.
(Follow the shortening frame rules found in the frame section).
10. No attaching bumpers or frame to body except in specified ways. (Example is #9 wire rule) 11. (1) 10” x 4” x 1/4 thick flat plate may attach from the back of the front bumper on the exterior side of the frame. If running this plate for a bracket, all factory shocks and brackets must be removed.
12. Bumper height not to exceed 22” from the bottom of the front bumper to the ground and must be a minimum of 14” from the ground to the bottom of the rear bumper or frame. Bumpers must be in stock location. The bumper must be completely in front of the frame rails. No part of the bumper may extend back past the front most part of the frame rails.
Body Bolts:
1. All body bolts are allowed to be changed to 3/4” all thread.
2. All body bolts or all thread must be straight vertical rod only, no bends or angle pieces. Must have a 1” metal spacer minimum per location changed. Spacers cannot be any larger than a factory body spacer size (2”). All bottom nuts must be inside of the frame. Absolutely no welding allowed to mount body bolts. Body bolt locations cannot connect to another body bolt location. No welding the spacers to the frame! Only (2) of the k-frame bolts can be changed in a Mopar.
3. Body components must be direct bolt up only. Do not put a sedan body on a
wagon frame, etc.
4. (2) 1” pieces of all thread are allowed at the core support. Must be through the top side of the frame or bracket only. All thread can weld to the frame but not the body. 1” minimum space between core support and frame. All spacers cannot exceed 2” material. Cannot weld core support spacer to frame or core support.
5. Factory stamped washers on the inside of the frame. (1) 3”x 3” x 1/4” plate on the topside per body bolt location. Plates cannot touch other plates.
6. Do not add body bolts.
Hood:
1. Entire Hood most open for inspection.
2. Must be in stock location.
3. You are allowed (6) total hood bolts in any configuration. The core support bolts count as hood bolts if they come through the hood. No hood bolts bigger than 3/4” all thread is allowed. (1) 3” x 3” x 1/4” plate per hood bolt location. Plate must be on the top side of the hood. 4. 1” all thread hood bolts or allowed to connect to the frame at the core support. Firewall hood bolts cannot connect to the frame in anyway.
5. Hood must cover the entire fan area.
6. There must be a hole big enough in the hood for a fire extinguisher to be used in case of a fire.
Frame:
1. Top frame seams, a -arms forward, can be welded. 1/2” bead only with a single pass.
2. Cold tilting, cut and tilting, and re-stubbed cars are allowed. 03 and newer cars must tilt in the side rails only. 14” of weld to tilt. If you cut and tilt at the box, DO NOT FOLD THE TABS OVER AND WELD THEM DOWN!! NO FRAME SHAPING!! If car is cold tilted, the 14” of weld can be used on the top side frame seam behind the a -arm. (Example old iron gm). If you cut and tilt, then you cannot use the 14” of extra frame seam welding. If you don’t understand call!
3. Rear frame maybe dimpled or notched in 2 places per frame rail.
4. Frames maybe shaped on rear humps only. Wheel side of frame only. This is the only frame shaping allowed period!
5. You may shorten any new iron car up to the front of the core support hole. The factory core support tab must remain in the factory location, with a factory weld. Remainder of tab can be welded to the bumper. Please call if you don’t
understand this rule.
6. Old iron cars may shorten to the front of the core support hole on the frame or bumper bracket. Any old iron car that has the core support hole in the bracket must leave the bracket in the factory location, with the factory bolts. Bracket and frame can be shortened to the front of the core support hole on the bracket. Both the bracket and frame can be welded to the bumper. Bumper bracket can also weld to the frame. If the bumper is hardnosed to the frame and bracket, the shock must be removed completely.
7. Frame repair plates are at the discretion of the promoter for the show that you are running. Please call the promoter for the show that you are running!
8. You may restub a car using only 14” of weld, (1)1/2” bead, with no added material per frame rail. All restubs must be make for make. 03 and newer stubs can only be used in 03 and newer cars. All sub car restubs must be direct bolt up!! Have questions please call. All 03 and newer cars must be restubbed in the side frame rails.
9. Any metal found inside the frames will result in the car being disqualified and it will be loaded.
10. After any car passes inspection, you will not be allowed to add repair plates to the frame or body in any way! Do not weld your frame or body after heat.
Remember cars will be reinspected.
Suspension:
1. You may change springs to a stiffer OEM spring. Doubled springs are OK if in the rear.
2. Shocks and Suspension must main stock! No all thread in shock locations.
3. You may change upper a -arms to a stamp steel car a-arm. This means cut the bar out of the a-arm and run individual bolts if the car you are running came that way factory. Adapter plates are allowed if the car has a factory steering box location on the frame rail. 03 and newer must run the rack and pinion style steering. All steering components must remain stock, or stock replacement, in stock locations for all cars!
4. Upper a -arms may be welded down using (2) pieces of 2” x 3” x 1/4” strap per upper a-arm per side of a-arm. Half the a-arm strap must weld to the upper a-arm and the other to the wheel side of the frame. Push this rule you lose it completely. Lower a-arm cannot be welded to the frame in anyway. Stock spindles only. Must be a car spindle!
5. Leaf springs- 7 leaf total pack per side. No flat stacks! Must have 1” stagger
between leafs on both sides of the spring. No leaf’s exceeding 3/8” thickness. (6) clamps per side. Not to be exceed 2”x4”x 1/4” thickness flat strap and can use (2) 3/8” bolts per clamp. Hangers must remain stock but 1” of the hanger can be welded to the frame per hanger. Hanger and spring must bolt together. Springs cannot be welded together. Must pivot!
6. Rear suspension may be chained down with a max of 3/8” chain. One loop from frame rail to rearend per side.
7. Rear control arms may be changed. Can lengthen or shorten. May be loaded.
You may also make your own control arms out of 2” x 2” x1/4” tubing. Aftermarket control arms are allowed. If these are used to strengthen the car you will change them.
8. Watt’s Conversion kits allowed but only the lower brackets can be welded to the frame. Brackets cannot strengthen the car. 3”x3”x1/4” tubing max for lower
brackets and can only weld to the inside of the frame, not the top or bottom of the frame rail. Everything else must be bolted in place.
9. Factory package tray must remain in the car, for that car.
Drivetrain:
1. (4) 3/8” threaded rod and (2) 3” wide straps can be used to hold the radiator in. Can be bolted or welded to core support. This is to hold the radiator in the car, not to reinforce it!
2. Pinion brakes are allowed. Must work.
3. Can use any rubber engine mount. Mounts may be welded to frame only. Mount to frame not to exceed 8“x 8“x 1/4“material. You may extend off the back of the frame cradle but nothing excessive, 1/2-inch flat plate only. (Example SBC in caddy or mopar). Cannot weld the lower engine cradle to the frame or to the mount.
4. OEM crossmembers or 2“x 2“x 1/4“tubing or 2” pipe can be used to make a
crossmember. You may use (1) 3“x 2“x 1/4“x 8“ in length piece of angle iron to
bolt the tubing or crossmember to. Can use (2) 1/2” bolts per side to bolt the
crossmember to the angle iron bracket. (1) Side of the angle iron can be welded
to the frame you can only have (1) angle iron piece per side frame rail. If using
angle iron, factory ears must be cut off the frame.
5. You may have (2) 5/16 chains, (1) per side attaching from the engine block or
cradle to the frame. Chains cannot go any further than the front of the water
pump in no further back than the back of the valve covers. Chains can weld to
the frame with only two links.
6. Slider driveshafts are allowed.
7. All rear ends must be a stock 5 lug and can be jigged for the car you are running. Rearends can have a back brace only. Brace not to exceed 2”x4”x1/4”. Brace must be 4” away from the axle flanges. This is the only bracing allowed! Rearend cannot reinforce the car in any way.
8. Steel bell housing and ultra-bells are allowed. Factory cased transmissions only. All transmissions and Skelton style braces must set on the top side of the
crossmember only and cannot lock in. If the transmission brace is made to lock- in it will be cut or removed. Skelton style transmission braces are the only trans braces allowed. Can be chained to the crossmember with a max of (1) 3/8” chain, single loop. Transmission brace cannot be bolted or welded to crossmember. If not running a transmission brace you may bolt the stock transmission to the crossmember using a rubber trans mount. Relief cuts must be made if running a brace or bell to the trans tunnel. These are to help you not break an expensive transmission, not to reinforce the car!
9. Lower engine cradles are allowed 1/2” thickness Max. Mid plates and front plates can be ran, also 1/2” thickness Max. Cannot be any wider than the engine and cannot be any taller than the valve covers. Cannot touch the frame or sheet metal at any time. All sheet metal must be removed if running a mid-plate. Pulley protectors are allowed but if running pulley Protector, the entire sway bar must be removed. No distributor protectors allowed!
10. All DOT approved tires are allowed. No solid tires or foam filled.
11. No wheel/tire under 12 inches or over a 15 inch will be allowed.
12. Wheels can have small centers in them. 3/8” thickness max. Lip protectors and valve stem protectors are allowed.
13. All brakes must work.
14. Radiators must remain in the stock factory location. Can have water and or
antifreeze only.
15. Air conditioner condensing core may be placed in front of the radiator. No guards or expanded metal allowed.
16. Header protector and carb protectors are allowed. Again, no distributor
protectors!
17. 03 and up Fords, mercury, and Lincoln please read! The bolt in steel lower
engine cradles used to mount the engines are OK but cannot tie to the frame
rails in any way. Aluminum stock cradle must be ran.
Body:
1. No Sedagons.
2. Deck lid must be 100% in stock location. Must use a trunk lid off a car, not a
hood. You may tuck the trunk with a single 90° bend. You are allowed (2) 3/4”
pieces of all thread through the deck lid to the frame. (1) per rail. These must go through a factory body bolt hole and can go to the top side of the frame only.
Must be vertical. V – wedging is allowed, rear corners must be vertical. Speaker
decking must be in stock location or can be removed entirely. If speaker decking is removed, you cannot weld the truck lid to the floor and make a seam.
3. Removal of trunk lid is allowed.
4. A front window bar must be ran on each car. Minimum of 1 bar, max of 2 bars. Bars cannot be more than 3” wide and can only attached to sheet-metal. This is for safety only.
5. Anything can be removed; nothing can be added unless specified in the rules.
6. You are allowed (8) 3/8” bolts per fender and (8) 3/8” bolts in the hood. All with a max of 1 1/2” fender washers.
7. Body creasing is allowed. Sheet metal only.
Rust:
1. Rusted area must be removed, 1/2” overlap from new metal to old metal. New rust patches must not overlap. You must butt weld, using your stitch weld. Don’t stagger the welds on two patches to have one continuous weld between two patches.
2. New material not to exceed factory thickness.
3. Must be welded 1” on 1” off -abuse it, you’ll lose it – zero tolerance.
4. No rust repair to frames. That’s for the promoter to decide if you can use a repair plate at that location.
OFFICIAL STATEMENTS:
All Judges Decisions are final. No refunds of entry fees will be allowed. Please come legal so we do not have problems!
For all Technical questions Please call the following:
OKLAHOMA BOYS PROMOTIONS: John Reeves 620-870-0254
Unified Builders Compact Rules
Mad Dog Demolition Derby Compact Class
Oklahoma Boys Promotions L.L.C.These are rules for you to follow, not to manipulate, or to find away around! If these rules do
not state you can do something, then you can’t! No exceptions. If anything at ALL is found in the frame you will not get a chance to cut, it is automatic refusal into the show, it is not for debate! No vans, suvs, or mini trucks. No v8s. All cars must fit the wheelbase of 110”. All trash and debris must be removed from the car. Must have a visible roof sign or your number visible on both sides of the car. No profanity lettered on cars.
1.) CAGE– all cage material can be no bigger than 2×6 rectangle. A 4-pt. cage will be allowed. With a vertical halo. May have a gas tank protector no wider than 12” off the center of the seat bar each way making it 24” wide total. You may run 2 kicker bars from the vertical part of the halo back to the top of the gas tank protector on both sides. This will protect the tanks from anything coming in. All cage material must be at least 4” off the floor. Both door
bars can only go 6” past the outside door seam on the front doors to the back of the car. Door bars and dash bar must be a minimum of 6” away from the firewall. The halo bars may go all the way to the floor or frame and be welded in. You can also have 2 other down bars from cage to frame or body between the front door seams going no further forward than the outside front door seam. A front window is required. May go from the roof to the dash
bar or the roof to the firewall but not both and cannot be connected to the halo. A rear window bar will be allowed. Must run from the roof to the front trunk seam and may go 3” to either side of the seam allowing a total of 6”. This cannot attach to the halo.
2.) FRAME– No welding allowed on the frame. You may be allowed to pre curl the rear frame section if you wish. Cradle bolts maybe changed to ¾” allthread running from bottom of the cradle through the frame. Must be fastened with flat stamped washers and ¾” nut. Must be flush with top of the frame. Only the front two at the core support may run up through the hood as body bolts. You are allowed (1) 3/8” chain per side from unibody to cradle. 1 loop
only welded on each end. You CANNOT weld the loops together.
3.) Body– driver’s door may be welded solid. Drivers’ doors may be plated or wrapped. Can not go any further than 3” past the front door seams. All other doors must be welded 5 on 5 off. The trunk seam may be welded 5 on 5 off as well. All body panels may be creased but no doubling of seams. All body bolts may be changed to ¾” body bolts. Using bolts or allthread. Must be secured with stamped washers and nuts. All washers and nuts on the bottom side
must be inside the frame not across the bottom of the frame. The top of the body bolt inside the cab or trunk of the car may have (1) 3x3x1/4 plate to serve as a washer with (1) ¾” nut. All body bolts must have the factory rubber bushing or a 1” body spacer of some sort. Each wheel well opening may have a total of (5) 3/8” bolts with washers and nuts to bolt the wheel wells together. The body cannot be welded to the frame in any fashion. This includes the unibody to the k frame. (2) pieces of ¾” allthread may run through the trunk.
These may run through the frame being used as a body bolt or may be ran sheet metal to sheet metal.
4.) DRIVETRAIN– engines must be 6cyl or smaller. No v8s! Engines and transmission of choice otherwise. May have headers. May have carb conversions. May have a simple carb protector must stay between the headers and can not strengthen the car in anyway. A lower engine cradle may be used for RWD cars. Must bolt to the block of the engine and can only be mounted using a factory oem rubber lower mount of some sort. Only a simple cradle maybe used. No pulley protector, no front or midplates. This is for mounting
purposes only. Crossmembers on rwd cars must be an OEM crossmember of some sort. Can use a piece of angle 2”x2”x ¼” x 6” long welded to the frame for the crossmember to bolt using 1 ½” bolt per side. Slider drive shafts are welcome. Aftermarket pedals and shifters allowed. Transmission coolers allowed.
5.) SUSPENSION AND STEERING– Front struts must be stock appearing! They may be welded up, stuffed, and reinforced on the inside. Custom or aftermarket steering columns are allowed. The upper and lower control arms and front wheel hubs must remain factory! A arms may be welded down using (2) 2x3x1/4” straps per upper a arm. Leaf springs must be of factory oem origin. May have a total of 7 leafs per side. The leafs must taper 1” starting
with the main leaf. May have 3 clamps per side of the rearend totaling 6 per side of the car. Clamps must be ¼” material 2” wide by 4” long max and using (2) 3/8” bolts per pack. Coil spring cars may double the rear coils. May have 1 3/8” chain per side to set and adjust the ride height.
6.) BUMPERS– You may run after market bumpers or homemade bumpers. This includes pointys. If running a pointy factory or fabricated it cannot be any bigger the 13” from back of the bumper to the point. The point must down grade of 32”. Bumpers cannot be any taller than 8” at any location. You may shorten the frame to 1” in front of the core support mount and hard-nosed the bumper to the frame. This means the main frame; it cannot attach to the cradle on Fwd cars in any way. You will be allowed a 4” wide x 6” long x ¼”
thick bumper bracket per side. Bumper bracket must be on the wheel side of the frame rail and must have a ½” inspection hole. If there isn’t one, you will cut one. There CANNOT be any square tube added to the back of the bumper and being inserted inside the frame. If this is found, you will not get the chance to cut and will not run period! All bumper mounting rules apply to the rear bumper as well.
7.) HOODS– all cars must have a hood! No exceptions. The front core support mounts may be changed to ¾” all thread. Using stamped washers and nuts. This piece of allthread may run up through the hood and be used as a hood bolt. You may have 2 other hood bolts per side. Maybe be all thread or angle iron hood clips with (1) ½” bolt per clip. Angle can only be 2x2x1/4” by 4” long. Hoods must have an inspection hole. If center of hood is cut out, you may bolt the Sheetmetal back with up to (10) 3/8” bolts.
8.) WHEELS AND TIRES– 15” wheel and tire or smaller may be ran. Wheels may have a small 8” multi center. No full center and no beadlocks. May have a 1” lip guard and a valve stem protector. May run solid tires on the rear of FWD. NO FOAM filled.
9.) REARENDS- any OEM 5 lug rearend may be ran on Rwd cars. May have a simple back brace. No full braces, no axle savers etc. Pinion brakes are allowed.
10.) #9wire– You may have 3 spots of 9 wire. Where and how it is ran is up to the driver. These can only be 2 loops making a 4strand twist. May have a bolt squeezing the twist together in the middle. No cables or chains may be used.
11.) Gas tanks– aftermarket tanks are allowed and preferred. Mounted on the gas tank protector that is allowed is also preferred. Factory tanks will be allowed to run if they are metal! No plastic tanks. Will be allowed to run under the car only if they are in front of the rear axle and fully secured. If this becomes an issue, we will not allow it any further.
12.) Repair plates– pre ran cars and only pre ran cars will be allowed a max of (2) 4”x6”x ¼” plates per frame rail, not the cradles. There must be a visible bend or damage for these plates to be utilized. A ½” hole must be put in the plate for us to see through for inspection or you will be asked to cut one, no exceptions. Any other damage repair will be at the promoter of that shows discretion. That doesn’t necessarily mean it’ll be ok at the next show. Any questions contact the promoter of the show.
If it is not listed in this set of rules again, do not do it! If you have questions, ask first. All judges’ decisions are final. Any arguments or fighting and you will not run and be asked to leave. No one other than the driver are allowed at the inspection of the car. You will get
(2) attempts to fix the car. If not done how you were asked in those (2) attempts, you will be asked to load the car and not run.
Oklahoma Boys Promotions
Wade Daniels: 620-778-0119
John Reeves: 620-870-0254
Oklahoma Boys Promotions L.L.C.General Rules and Regulations:
1. Any American made car can run with the following exceptions. Full-Size cars with the wheelbase of at least 113” or more. No 4×4’s, Imperials, Ambulances, Hearses, Trucks or Limousines.
2. All driver’s must sign driver’s paperwork before being inspected or they will not run.
4. All drivers must attend the pit meeting before the event.
5. No drivers are allowed any alcohol or drugs before the event, If found under the influence while wearing a drivers band you will be disqualified for the remainder of the event.
6. Any complaints that a driver has about another car prior to the start of your heat will need to be addressed in the drivers meeting in specifics. If nothing is said, we don’t want to hear about it after the show.
7. DO NOT paint anywhere on suspension, frame, or interior of car.
8. No driver substitutions, only one driver per entered car.
9. Judges decisions are final!!
Show Rules:
1. You have 1 minute to make an aggressive hit, After 1 minute that car is disqualified. 2. For safety, DO NOT HIT IN THE DRIVER’S DOOR!!
3. You will be given 2 fires 1st one we put out and the 2nd one you are done for that round.
4. Rollovers, you may keep going as long as car is deemed safe.
5. No holding or pinning, you must back up and show day light. You may not pin to win
Car Preparation: IF IT DOESN’T SAY YOU CAN SPECIFICALLY DO SOMETHING THEN YOU CAN’T
1. No fresh paint or undercoating on the frames at all. No buffing or grinding frames or bodies except where welding is specifically allowed in the rules.
2. All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.
3. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from the car before arriving to the derby.
4. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
5. You MUST have a number in bright colors on each front door and may have a sign on the roof of your car with car number on it for recognition or car.
6. Batteries must be moved to passenger front floorboard. They must be properly secured and covered.
7. All cars must have working brakes, If the car is not able to exhibit the ability to stop, it will not be inspected.
8. NO welding other than what is mentioned in this set of rules. If your car is found with any weld other than what is allowed and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction, you and your car will not run.
Body:
1. Remove all glass mirrors and plastic. Remove all decking in wagons, cars must be swept clean of all debris before you get to the derby.
2. No sedagons fresh or preran, zero crease enhancement, zero sheet metal or frame shaping, forming or folding.
3. Deck lids must be in stock location. You may tuck trunk with a single 90-degree bend.
Fasten trunk or tailgate with 4 places 2 strands of #9 wire or 3/8” chain.
4. Anything can be removed; nothing can be added.
5. Hoods get one hood clip 3” long 2”x 2” x3/16” with one 1⁄2” bolt and nut per side. (2) 5/8” bolts total thru hood in firewall area and 2 core support bolts thru the hood to top of frame only with 4” washes.
6. You may weld doors total of 6 inches on each vertical seem only 2”x 1/8” strap. Drivers’ door may be welded solid.
7. Body mounts and spacers to remain stock and in place. If they are broken or rusted out, a single piece #9 wire may be substituted. No body bolt changing allowed.
8. #9 wire, chain or bar required in front windshield.
Frames
1. No welding on frames allowed.
2. No suspension modifications allowed, must remain strictly stock.
3. You may use 2 twists in spring spacers per side (store bought, no homemade).
4. You may use a single strand #9 wire to hold coil spring to rear end and leaf sprung cars may use 4 single strands #9 wire as leaf clamps.
Tires/wheels:
1. Tires no bigger than 16 inches, no split rims, no studded tire, doubled tires are ok No foam filled.
Drivetrain: any drivetrain allowed with the following criteria
1. Only the lower engine mounts may be welded to the crossmember. You may use two 1⁄2” thick spacers to raise engine to clear steering components, may not exceed rubber mount area. You may extend off back of crossmember but nothing excessive, 1⁄2’ flat plate only (example sbc in Caddy, Mopar, Ford).
2. No tranny protectors, stock mounts only, stock crossmembers to car being ran only.
3. Rearend swaps allowed: No bracing, no welding, no re-enforcement. Max axle size 31 spline. Must be a direct bolt-in. gears maybe welded.
4. you may run 1 piece of 3/8” chain from rearend around frame OR 2 strands of #9 wire from rearend to frame, nothing thru the body, nothing thru the frame (#9 wire 2 loops, 4 strands together).
5. Floor shifters allowed, gas/brake pedals allowed, headers allowed. (none may strengthen the car).
6. No cradles, protectors, skid plates no aftermarket parts of this nature at all.
7. You may swap engines, example chevy in a ford.
8. Slider drive shafts are allowed.
9. Aftermarket steering column ok, no hydro steering, aftermarket pedal and shifter ok.
Driver’s Compartment:
1. 4-point square cage 6” max material. 6” away from fire wall inside of car not inside of door skins. Side bars not to exceed 62” in total length, with one 2” x 3” down tube to sheet metal only per side. Halo bar allowed to back seat bar or floor sheet metal.
2. Gas Tank Protector
Gas tank protector is allowed no wider than 24 inches. Must be at least 1 inch away from the rear package tray. Must run straight back from the center of the cage and must be a minimum of 4 inches off the trans tunnel. Can run 2 support bars off the halo to gas tank protector to support it. MUST BE INSIDE THE CAR
3. Driver’s door must be padded.
4. Gas tank must be removed cannot use factory tank. Battery must be moved and secured to passenger side floorboard.
5. Trans coolers allowed, must be mounted inside of cage are.
Bumpers:
1. You may weld on any OEM stock bumper, you can stuff OEM stock bumber, you may weld stock bumper bracket for the car or the bumper to the frame 4 inches from back of bumper, single pass only.
1a. In addition, you may put 4 one-inch welds on back side of bracket or to weld shock inside frame. (example Crown Vics). All bumper material longer than 4 inches must be removed.
2. Shocks can be collapsed and welded, all shocks and brackets in stock location and extended one inch in front of frame.
➢ All bumper brackets and shocks must be in stock location.
OR
➢ You may shorten to one inch in front of the core support space and hard nose
with no shocks or brackets on car.
OR
➢ You may chain, one piece of chain per side BOLTED from the mount to mount to hold on the bumper.
Pre Rans:
You may have (2) 4” x 4” x 1⁄4’ plate per side where visibly bend (must show visibly bend) not just because its pre ran.
Oklahoma Boys Promotions
Matt Alban: 620-515-4763
John Reeves: 620-870-0254
STOCK RULES
INSPECTION OPENS AT 12 NOON. CARS MUST PASS INSPECTION AND HAVE A FLAG BY 4:30 OR YOU WILL NOT RUN!
DO NOT READ ANYTHING INTO THESE RULES, JUST READ THE RULES!! If it doesn’t say you can, YOU CAN’T!
Or you will be loaded, your choice! NO ALL BLACK cars, dark cars must have contrasting letter/numbers. DO NOT paint anywhere on suspension or frame, we will not even inspect your car. – Remove all glass mirrors and plastic. Remove all decking in wagons
COMPETITION RULES: – Drivers must remain in the vehicle with helmet, seat belt, eye protection and steering wheel on until notified by an official that it is safe to exit the vehicle.
– Driver’s door hits are illegal. If the hit is deemed by the official to be careless or intentional, you will be disqualified. If you use your driver’s door as a defense, we will not enforce the rules.
– No hot rodding in the pits. Keep it at an idle.
– Any open door will be cause disqualification, you are allowed one fire, and then second fire will be cause for disqualification. You may return in later rounds.
– Sandbagging is not tolerated and will be strictly enforced. Locking up the brakes prior to a hit for anything other than a driver’s door will be a cause for disqualification. The fans pay to see a show, put one on for them! – You must make AGGRESSIVE HIT every 60 seconds. – You will be given ample time for restarts. We do not use the clock exclusively. We try to work with you if you are hung up. Hitters get more time than sandbaggers. – This is not a team event; team driving will not be tolerated. if the derby is stopped for sandbagging you will get a pink S sprayed on your car.
– Any questions, CALL FIRST. Don’t assume anything. The Officials decision is final.
Body
– No sedagons, no creasing or frame shaping, forming or folding allowed. – Hood must be open for inspection.
– Wagons ONLY if you remove your tail gate may have 6 places of wire 2 strands max must be behind axle sheet metal to sheet metal only roof to floor.
– Anything can be removed, NOTHING can be added. – All cars competing must have a hood on at all times to run.
– Fasten trunks, hoods, tail gates in 6 places, 2x2x2 angle,2×2 flat steel, chain or 2 strands of #9 wire (Sheet metal to sheet metal only)or 6 locations using ½ bolts with store bought washers through the drip rail in the trunk.
-Door seams may have no more than 12” of weld, vertical seam only. 2” x 1/4” strap.
-BODYMOUNTS:
-You may have up to a 6” core support spacer (if it bends or kinks your frame you will not run. It says up to 6 inch you may can only fit 3 inches don’t push this rule)
– If you choose to change your core support mounts with 2 of your 5/8 threaded rods, you get 3 plates 1/4x 5”x 5” max, 7- 5/8 nuts ,7 -3″OD max 1/8 thick washers per threaded rod CORE SUPPORT ONLY. If core support bolts are changed, this will count for 2 of your 6 mounts to hold the hood down.
-ALL body bolts must remain stock with the exception i will allow you to change up to 4 bolts with no larger than 1/2 inch bolt but must go through the factory bushing. if you change more than 4 you will loose the extras and not be allowed to put anything in there place. do not push this rule. bolt may only go through frame and body as it was factory.
– No attaching body bolts to any part of the cage/roll over bar.
– #9 wire or chain required in front windshield.
FRAMES:
– You may dimple or notch your rear frame rails only to achieve the frame to roll
– NO welding, bolting, wiring or adding any material/substance to strengthen frames. -At Inspectors discretion frames will be drilled, wire wheeled or wiped down. – Absolutely not painting or spraying any material on frames or welds. Cars will not be inspected.
– No cold bending frames at all!! All frames will be checked with a straight edge. IF CAUGHT COLD BENDING or TILTING it will NOT run.
SUSPENSION and STEERING:
– You may weld 2 straps per upper A-Arm 2”x2” to maintain ride height.
– You may change coil springs to a stiffer oem passenger car spring.
– You may use store bought spring spacers (no homemade spacers or spacers on top of the springs)
– You may use a single strand #9 wire to hold coil spring to rear end. Leaf spring cars may use 4 single strands #9 wire as leaf clamps per spring stack.
– All suspension and steering must remain stock ( unless a modification is stated ).
– Aftermarket steering columns and shafts are allowed. These components may not strength car in anyway at anytime.
– Tie rods maybe reinforced in only 1 of the following 2 ways; 1) sleeve maybe discarded and pipe/solid rod tapped can be put in it’s place. 2) Factory sleeve and ends maybe welded and reinforced with steel. Tie rod ends must be factory ends and fit the spindle and drag link without reaming the holes larger. A store bought washer maybe placed over the steam of the tie rod and welded.
– Upper A arms maybe interchanged as long as there able to be bolted on. You may cut/ trim to make fit but no welding on brackets etc. A arm must bolt on factory brackets of frame, no drilling new holes or enlarging existing holes. Example: 80-91 box ford a arms being installed on a 98-02. Cut the mounting bar out and trim the edges of a arms to get height.
-Rear control arms may be changed but must be stock. You may shorten but max 2” overlap.
– 98 up watt links conversion will be allowed only in the following way!! Upper trailing arm brackets must be bolted in. They must be 2 separate brackets, may not be larger than 6”x 12”x 3/8” thick max. 4- 5/8 bolts, nuts and 8 washers per bracket. Brackets may only be bolted to package tray and bolts may not stick thru body. Brackets may not strength frame or body. NO WELDING AT ALL OF UPPER BRACKETS. Must run factory control arms, may be shorted but nothing to strengthen them.
-98 up watt links LOWER BRACKET Conversion. Only 1 way will be allowed to mount lower trailing arm bracket. 1 piece of square tube 3”x 3”x 3/8”x 3” long max per side of frame maybe used. Cut the square tube to make a C channel. It must be welded to the inboard of the frame at the point you want your trailing arm mounted. Drill your hole thru the tube and only 1 thickness of the frame. Bolt your arm into place. No other bolts will be allowed to mount this bracket. No factory mounting brackets will be allowed to mount the trailing arms.
DRIVETRAIN:
– ANY drive train & transmission (manual transmissions allowed, steel aftermarket bell housings allowed but trans tunnel must be cut and not touching the bell in any way, no trans brace, no mid plates.
-you may run a basic front plate and lower engine cradle with pulley protector, may run aftermarket mounts as long as there the bushing style.
-no engine chains, unless approved with pictures
Rear axle
– Any rear 5 or 8 lug, may not strengthen car in any way.
– Rear end brace will be allowed.
-Pinion brake is ok
– You may run 3/8 chain around rear end back to the frame with only each end of the chain welded back to the frame for ride height control. Any extra chain links or weld on the frame will cause you to run working suspension.
DRIVERS COMPARTMENT :
– 4 point square cage only, (1) down tube in the center of each front door welded to sheet metal only nothing to the frame. max 60 inch cage over all measurement. 6 inch max, Must be mounted horizontally and 6 inches off floor. Gussets only in interior of 4 point cage.
– Gas tank mount may be welded to back bar, but bar and fuel cell/tank must be 4 inches from rear sheet metal. See below for mounting fuel tank/ cell to floor.
– Halo bar allowed is allowed, 2-1/2 bolts with 1/2 washers to attach to roof. The halo bar may only be attached to the back seat bar or sidebars, not to floor.
– Drivers door must be padded.
– Gas tank and batteries must be moved and secured. Tank behind the seat, Battery centered in the passenger front floor.
– Nothing may be mounted in a way that strengthens the car.
– Trans coolers allowed. Must be mounted inside 4 point cage area. Or on cage must be tight to cage if mounted on back bar.
Bumpers:
– You may hardnose front and rear bumpers where the frame is cut in FRONT of the core support mount, but no shortening rear frame. Follow rules below if using a shock.
– You may weld on any DI approved bumper(see below). Bumper brackets (in factory location) maybe weld continuously to frame 4 inches from the back of bumper only. In addition you may put 4 one inch welds on back side of bumper bracket or to weld shock inside frame(example Crown Vics).
You may shorten 80 and newer fords up to core support mount but core support must bolt in the factor location. Do Not move the mount or mounting hole. you may also be hard nosed.
Call with special cars to mount bumper legally. Rear brackets on rear and front brackets on front. – Or you may chain, 2 piece of chain per side BOLTED from the mount to mount to hold on the bumper.
– Bumper height must be 16″ to 22″ measured to the bottom of the frame at the back and front body mount location.
-Bumper may not exceed 9’’x9’’. – BUMPERS are interchangeable for all cars. -IF you start with a stock/replacement bumper you are allowed to re-enforce inside of bumper
– Bumper must appear stock from the stands with no spike or protruding items.
-If your bumper will not fit in a factory skin, it is too big.
– You may weld the outer chrome skin to the bumper inner frame – Bumpers may be cut to keep them out of the tires/ no sharp ends. – Bumpers may be flipped (upside down).
TIRES & BRAKES: – No tires taller than 30″. 4 wheels max per car. No dual tires. – No split rims, studded tires or 100% solid wheels, you may use aftermarket center with various bolt patterns, solid centers are fine. Welds must be approved by judges on rear tires. Stay off the area of the rim the tube touches, except to weld your center into the rim.
– Valve stem protectors allowed, Valve stem protectors may not extend more than 6 inches from valve stem. Not allowed to be a rim protector. -Inner bead locks must not extend past stock tire bead area, not to exceed 2 inches wide. 1 inch outer lip ring allowed on outside bead.
– Doubled or foam filled tires allowed. – All cars must be able to demonstrate the ability to stop at any time. If your brakes do not work, you will not compete.
– You may not change tires after inspection, ride height will be measured with your competition tires only.
-03 and newer fords will have to maintain the factory aluminum cradle and factory rack and pinion. You may bolt in a steel mount for your engine but only bolted to the aluminum cradle in the original mounting holes. No welding allowed on the cradle.
Simple rules, simple build, keep it that way. Again do not get “creative” or read into these rules, let’s get back to the basics. If it is not clearly described above, it is not allowed. If it doesn’t say you can, YOU CAN’T!!
INSPECTION PROCEDURES: – Official’s decisions are final. – You will be given one (1) opportunity to correct items on your car. – Each car gets a maximum of 2 times thru inspection. (0ne re inspect) – Cars will be impounded after inspection and staged in a secure location. – You must be completely ready to bolt the hood down during inspection and then put the car in the staging area. – No further work will be allowed and cars will not be allowed to return to their trailers. – Do not come to the inspection line if you are not done preparing your car. – Any added or welded metal plate/rod or material not specifically covered in the rules, will be removed completely as well as the surrounding metal. Don’t do it or your car will be weakened! Call ahead!
Please contact Timothy Colvett at 931-797-6137
Gut n Go mini vans
Rules are very simple anything over is considered illegal and will not run. This is a simple build for anyone to run.
1. Front wheel drive mini van only.
2. May have a simple 4 point cage, no down bars and nothing to the floors. Simple cage to protect the driver.
3. May weld doors 12 inches max or may wire/chain them in 3 spots per door seam.
4 must move gas tank inside in the backseat area or run a fuel cell.
5. Must relocate the battery inside the passenger compartment and mount securely down.
6. Must remove all glass and plastic flammable items. May leave factory dash in the van.
This is the simplest build possible, do not overthink these rules because you will not run. Keep this a fun cheap class to run.
2024 FULL-SIZE BUILDERS CLASS
Mad Dog Demolition Derby Modified Full-Size
Oklahoma Boys Promotions L.L.C.
Entries in the Demolition Derby are open to men and women who have a valid Driver’s
License. The Following regulations shall be observed for safety and fairness to all.
Orderly conduct is required of all drivers and pit persons. If not, any driver and or people
affiliated with that car will be evicted without ANY refunds or prize money. Misconduct
may result in being banned from present and/ or future participation. Any driver or crew
member not complying with any one of the rules will be disqualified. Crew members are
the responsibility of the driver.
Entries:
1. Each driver must be at least 18 years old.
2. Each driver must furnish their own car. The driver that is registered to the car,
must drive that car in the heat assigned to them. Unless the officials are notified
of a driver change and approve it.
3. Hearse, ambulances, jeeps, trucks, convertibles, mini vans, SUVs, or commercial
vehicles will not be allowed.
4. All cars will have to pass inspection before the tech line closes.
5. Prior to the start of the driver’s meeting, each driver must sign an entry and a
release form.
Participation Rules:
1. Drivers may maneuver either forward or backwards.
2. Hitting an opponent’s car in the driver’s door is not allowed and will be cause for
disqualification.
3. Must make a damaging hit (from a spectator’s point of view) every 60 seconds.
No team driving or sandbagging.
4. All drivers must attend the drivers meeting prior to start time.
5. All drivers must remain in their cars until the car is removed from the track.
Unless an official removes the driver.
6. No driver or pitman under the influence of alcohol will be permitted to enter the
arena or to participate.
7. Any driver not in place when called upon will be disqualified.
8. Pitmen are not allowed in the arena during a heat.
9. No one will be allowed to stay in the pit area without a pit pass.
10. No one under the age of 12 will be allowed in the pit area. Different events have
different age limits. Please ask the promoter for the show that you are attending.
11. Cars may be inspected at any time for reinforcements, etc. Top 3 finalist will be
subject to reinspection after the finish of the finals.
12. Car and driver in the inspection area only.
13. Cars will be inspected on or off the trailers.
Preparation Of Cars:
1. Vehicles may only be modified in the following ways. Any modifications not
specifically authorized by the rules are strictly prohibited.
2. Do not read into the rules! Just read and follow the rules! Not following the rules
will result in you being loaded. Your choice!
3. The drivers name should be above the number on the front doors, or you can run
a number sign. The number sign cannot reinforce the car. No obscenities or
allowed.
4. Concrete, metal plating, wood, foam, or pins in the frame will be considered
added ballast and will result in the car being loaded.
Welding Exceptions:
1. All cars must be welded 5” on 5” off with a max of 3” wide 1/8” thick strap. This
includes doors and the trunk lid. Also includes the tailgates on wagons. The
driver’s door may be welded solid.
2. No added material inside the car with the exception of the cage components.
3. No frame welding is allowed other than in the specified areas.
Drivers Compartment:
1. 4-point square cages only. All cage material must not exceed 6” material. All
cage material must be on the inside of the car compartment. No external door
bars allowed. All cage materials must be 4” off the floor, this includes the trans
tunnel. Gussets only in the interior of four-point cage. All halo bars are allowed to
have (2) 1/2” bolts with 1/2” washers to attach to the roof. Halo bars may go to
the top of the cage side bars only, in the vertical position. Material not to exceed
2”x6” rectangular tubing. Can have a total of (4) down bars from the bottom of the
side cage bars to the top of the frame rail. These bars cannot touch the Crush
boxes, “S” curves, or any other curve in the frame. Down bars cannot exceed 4”x
4” material.
2. Gas tank protectors can only be 24” wide and must be 4” off the floor. Gas tank
protector halo must be 6” away from the roof minimum and must be inside of the
window opening. Gas tank protector can touch speaker decking sheet metal, but
the sheet metal cannot be altered or removed. Gas tank protector halo can be
connected to the roof halo, but material must be inside the car. Max material is
2”x6” and these bars cannot go any further back then the backside of the gas
tank protector. Unibody cars can run (2) down bars from the bottom of the gas
tank protector to the top of the frame or sheet metal instead of using the halo
down bars. (Example for Mopars). Call if you don’t understand this! All cage
material must be 6” away from the firewall and 6” from the inside rear door seam.
There must be a 6” gap between cage sidebars and rear hump sheet-metal on all
two door cars. Side bars not to exceed 62” in total length.
3. No rear window bars allowed.
4. Station wagon decking must be removed.
5. Window seams may be rolled over and welded. No added material.
6. Gas tanks are to be placed on the gas tank protector. 20-gallon tanks max. Must
be secured. No plastic boat tanks allowed. No fuel leaks!
7. Transmission coolers and oil coolers may be placed inside the car and secured.
All fans on coolers must have a cover for safety. Cannot context to frame!
8. Battery boxes may be in the passenger side floorboard or attached to your cage.
Must be secured and covered. Max of (2) batteries. Cannot connect to frame or
crossmember.
9. All aftermarket straight column steering is allowed. 03 and up cars must run rack
and pinion steering if that’s what came with that car.
10. All aftermarket brake/gas pedal set ups are allowed and can only bolt to the floor
sheet-metal. Cannot attach to frame or crossmember. Cannot strengthen the car.
11. You are allowed 3 locations of #9 wire, builders choice. These are (2) loops per
locations, total of 4 strands per location. No chain or cables allowed.
12. All factory gas tanks must be removed from factory locations.
Bumpers:
1. OEM bumpers and homemade bumpers are allowed. Homemade bumpers not to
exceed 8” material. Back of the bumper to the front of the point of the bumper not
to exceed 14” deep. All points must have a base point of 36” wide minimum.
Replica prefab bumpers are allowed. Loaded OEM bumpers allowed.
2. OEM bumpers may be used on the rear of the car or a piece of 4” x 4” tubing or
4” pipe can be used. The ends cannot be capped. Must not exceed the width of
the rear of the car. If it’s unsafe you will cut it off. No pointy’s or replicas pointy’s
on the rear of the car.
3. All bumpers may be loaded.
4. Switching bumpers from make to make is allowed. (Example Chevy to Ford).
5. You may weld the rear bumper straight to the frame or follow the rules for the
front bumper if using a shock.
6. You may weld the factory bumper bracket to the frame. Must be in factory
location and bolted to frame with factory bolts.
7. You may hardnose bumpers.
8. If you choose to hardnose, no shock can be used at all. (Follow the shortening
frame rules found in the frame section).
9. You may cut the frame square to fit the bumper if you choose to hardnose.
(Follow the shortening frame rules found in the frame section).
10. No attaching bumpers or frame to body except in specified ways. (Example is #9
wire rule)
11. (1) 10” x 4” x 1/4 thick flat plate may attach from the back of the front bumper on
the exterior side of the frame. If running this plate for a bracket, all factory shocks
and brackets must be removed.
12. Bumper height not to exceed 22” from the bottom of the front bumper to the
ground and must be a minimum of 14” from the ground to the bottom of the rear
bumper or frame. Bumpers must be in stock location. The bumper must be
completely in front of the frame rails. No part of the bumper may extend back
past the front most part of the frame rails.
Body Bolts:
1. All body bolts are allowed to be changed to 3/4” all thread.
2. All body bolts or all thread must be straight vertical rod only, no bends or angle
pieces. Must have a 1” metal spacer minimum per location changed. Spacers
cannot be any larger than a factory body spacer size (2”). All bottom nuts must
be inside of the frame. Absolutely no welding allowed to mount body bolts. Body
bolt locations cannot connect to another body bolt location. No welding the
spacers to the frame! Only (2) of the k-frame bolts can be changed in a Mopar.
3. Body components must be direct bolt up only. Do not put a sedan body on a
wagon frame, etc.
4. (2) 1” pieces of all thread are allowed at the core support. Must be through the
top side of the frame or bracket only. All thread can weld to the frame but not the
body. 1” minimum space between core support and frame. All spacers cannot
exceed 2” material. Cannot weld core support spacer to frame or core support.
5. Factory stamped washers on the inside of the frame. (1) 3”x 3” x 1/4” plate on the
topside per body bolt location. Plates cannot touch other plates.
6. Do not add body bolts.
Hood:
1. Entire Hood most open for inspection.
2. Must be in stock location.
3. You are allowed (6) total hood bolts in any configuration. The core support bolts
count as hood bolts if they come through the hood. No hood bolts bigger than
3/4” all thread is allowed. (1) 3” x 3” x 1/4” plate per hood bolt location. Plate
must be on the top side of the hood.
4. 1” all thread hood bolts or allowed to connect to the frame at the core support.
Firewall hood bolts cannot connect to the frame in anyway.
5. Hood must cover the entire fan area.
6. There must be a hole big enough in the hood for a fire extinguisher to be used in
case of a fire.
Frame:
1. Top frame seams, a -arms forward, can be welded. 1/2” bead only with a single
pass.
2. Cold tilting, cut and tilting, and re-stubbed cars are allowed. 03 and newer cars
must tilt in the side rails only. 14” of weld to tilt. If you cut and tilt at the box, DO
NOT FOLD THE TABS OVER AND WELD THEM DOWN!! NO FRAME
SHAPING!! If car is cold tilted, the 14” of weld can be used on the top side frame
seam behind the a -arm. (Example old iron gm). If you cut and tilt, then you
cannot use the 14” of extra frame seam welding. If you don’t understand call!
3. Rear frame maybe dimpled or notched in 2 places per frame rail.
4. Frames maybe shaped on rear humps only. Wheel side of frame only. This is the
only frame shaping allowed period!
5. You may shorten any new iron car up to the front of the core support hole. The
factory core support tab must remain in the factory location, with a factory weld.
Remainder of tab can be welded to the bumper. Please call if you don’t
understand this rule.
6. Old iron cars may shorten to the front of the core support hole on the frame or
bumper bracket. Any old iron car that has the core support hole in the bracket
must leave the bracket in the factory location, with the factory bolts. Bracket and
frame can be shortened to the front of the core support hole on the bracket. Both
the bracket and frame can be welded to the bumper. Bumper bracket can also
weld to the frame. If the bumper is hardnosed to the frame and bracket, the
shock must be removed completely.
7. Frame repair plates are at the discretion of the promoter for the show that you
are running. Please call the promoter for the show that you are running!
8. You may restub a car using only 14” of weld, (1)1/2” bead, with no added material
per frame rail. All restubs must be make for make. 03 and newer stubs can only
be used in 03 and newer cars. All sub car restubs must be direct bolt up!! Have
questions please call. All 03 and newer cars must be restubbed in the side frame
rails.
9. Any metal found inside the frames will result in the car being disqualified and it
will be loaded.
10. After any car passes inspection, you will not be allowed to add repair plates to
the frame or body in any way! Do not weld your frame or body after heat.
Remember cars will be reinspected.
Suspension:
1. You may change springs to a stiffer OEM spring. Doubled springs are OK if in the
rear.
2. Shocks and Suspension must main stock! No all thread in shock locations.
3. You may change upper a -arms to a stamp steel car a-arm. This means cut the
bar out of the a-arm and run individual bolts if the car you are running came that
way factory. Adapter plates are allowed if the car has a factory steering box
location on the frame rail. 03 and newer must run the rack and pinion style
steering. All steering components must remain stock, or stock replacement, in
stock locations for all cars!
4. Upper a -arms may be welded down using (2) pieces of 2” x 3” x 1/4” strap per
upper a-arm per side of a-arm. Half the a-arm strap must weld to the upper a-arm
and the other to the wheel side of the frame. Push this rule you lose it completely.
Lower a-arm cannot be welded to the frame in anyway. Stock spindles only. Must
be a car spindle!
5. Leaf springs- 7 leaf total pack per side. No flat stacks! Must have 1” stagger
between leafs on both sides of the spring. No leaf’s exceeding 3/8” thickness. (6)
clamps per side. Not to be exceed 2”x4”x 1/4” thickness flat strap and can use (2)
3/8” bolts per clamp. Hangers must remain stock but 1” of the hanger can be
welded to the frame per hanger. Hanger and spring must bolt together. Springs
cannot be welded together. Must pivot!
6. Rear suspension may be chained down with a max of 3/8” chain. One loop from
frame rail to rearend per side.
7. Rear control arms may be changed. Can lengthen or shorten. May be loaded.
You may also make your own control arms out of 2” x 2” x1/4” tubing. Aftermarket
control arms are allowed. If these are used to strengthen the car you will change
them.
8. Watt’s Conversion kits allowed but only the lower brackets can be welded to the
frame. Brackets cannot strengthen the car. 3”x3”x1/4” tubing max for lower
brackets and can only weld to the inside of the frame, not the top or bottom of the
frame rail. Everything else must be bolted in place.
9. Factory package tray must remain in the car, for that car.
Drivetrain:
1. (4) 3/8” threaded rod and (2) 3” wide straps can be used to hold the radiator in.
Can be bolted or welded to core support. This is to hold the radiator in the car,
not to reinforce it!
2. Pinion brakes are allowed. Must work.
3. Can use any rubber engine mount. Mounts may be welded to frame only. Mount
to frame not to exceed 8“x 8“x 1/4“material. You may extend off the back of the
frame cradle but nothing excessive, 1/2-inch flat plate only. (Example SBC in
caddy or mopar). Cannot weld the lower engine cradle to the frame or to the
mount.
4. OEM crossmembers or 2“x 2“x 1/4“tubing or 2” pipe can be used to make a
crossmember. You may use (1) 3“x 2“x 1/4“x 8“ in length piece of angle iron to
bolt the tubing or crossmember to. Can use (2) 1/2” bolts per side to bolt the
crossmember to the angle iron bracket. (1) Side of the angle iron can be welded
to the frame you can only have (1) angle iron piece per side frame rail. If using
angle iron, factory ears must be cut off the frame.
5. You may have (2) 5/16 chains, (1) per side attaching from the engine block or
cradle to the frame. Chains cannot go any further than the front of the water
pump in no further back than the back of the valve covers. Chains can weld to
the frame with only two links.
6. Slider driveshafts are allowed.
7. All rear ends must be a stock 5 lug and can be jigged for the car you are running.
Rearends can have a back brace only. Brace not to exceed 2”x4”x1/4”. Brace
must be 4” away from the axle flanges. This is the only bracing allowed! Rearend
cannot reinforce the car in any way.
8. Steel bell housing and ultra-bells are allowed. Factory cased transmissions only.
All transmissions and Skelton style braces must set on the top side of the
crossmember only and cannot lock in. If the transmission brace is made to lock-
in it will be cut or removed. Skelton style transmission braces are the only trans
braces allowed. Can be chained to the crossmember with a max of (1) 3/8” chain,
single loop. Transmission brace cannot be bolted or welded to crossmember. If
not running a transmission brace you may bolt the stock transmission to the
crossmember using a rubber trans mount. Relief cuts must be made if running a
brace or bell to the trans tunnel. These are to help you not break an expensive
transmission, not to reinforce the car!
9. Lower engine cradles are allowed 1/2” thickness Max. Mid plates and front plates
can be ran, also 1/2” thickness Max. Cannot be any wider than the engine and
cannot be any taller than the valve covers. Cannot touch the frame or sheet
metal at any time. All sheet metal must be removed if running a mid-plate. Pulley
protectors are allowed but if running pulley Protector, the entire sway bar must be
removed. No distributor protectors allowed!
10. All DOT approved tires are allowed. No solid tires or foam filled.
11. No wheel/tire under 12 inches or over a 15 inch will be allowed.
12. Wheels can have small centers in them. 3/8” thickness max. Lip protectors and
valve stem protectors are allowed.
13. All brakes must work.
14. Radiators must remain in the stock factory location. Can have water and or
antifreeze only.
15. Air conditioner condensing core may be placed in front of the radiator. No guards
or expanded metal allowed.
16. Header protector and carb protectors are allowed. Again, no distributor
protectors!
17. 03 and up Fords, mercury, and Lincoln please read! The bolt in steel lower
engine cradles used to mount the engines are OK but cannot tie to the frame
rails in any way. Aluminum stock cradle must be ran.
Body:
1. No Sedagons.
2. Deck lid must be 100% in stock location. Must use a trunk lid off a car, not a
hood. You may tuck the trunk with a single 90° bend. You are allowed (2) 3/4”
pieces of all thread through the deck lid to the frame. (1) per rail. These must go
through a factory body bolt hole and can go to the top side of the frame only.
Must be vertical. V – wedging is allowed, rear corners must be vertical. Speaker
decking must be in stock location or can be removed entirely. If speaker decking
is removed, you cannot weld the truck lid to the floor and make a seam.
3. Removal of trunk lid is allowed.
4. A front window bar must be ran on each car. Minimum of 1 bar, max of 2 bars.
Bars cannot be more than 3” wide and can only attached to sheet-metal. This is
for safety only.
5. Anything can be removed; nothing can be added unless specified in the rules.
6. You are allowed (8) 3/8” bolts per fender and (8) 3/8” bolts in the hood. All with a
max of 1 1/2” fender washers.
7. Body creasing is allowed. Sheet metal only.
Rust:
1. Rusted area must be removed, 1/2” overlap from new metal to old metal. New
rust patches must not overlap. You must butt weld, using your stitch weld. Don’t
stagger the welds on two patches to have one continuous weld between two
patches.
2. New material not to exceed factory thickness.
3. Must be welded 1” on 1” off -abuse it, you’ll lose it – zero tolerance.
4. No rust repair to frames. That’s for the promoter to decide if you can use a repair
plate at that location.
OFFICIAL STATEMENTS:
All Judges Decisions are final. No refunds of entry fees will be allowed. Please come
legal so we do not have problems!
For all Technical questions Please call the following:
OKLAHOMA BOYS PROMOTIONS: John Reeves 620-870-0254
Mad Dog Demolition Derby Compact Class
Oklahoma Boys Promotions L.L.C.
These are rules for you to follow, not to manipulate, or to find away around! If these rules do
not state you can do something, then you can’t! No exceptions. If anything at ALL is found in
the frame you will not get a chance to cut, it is automatic refusal into the show, it is not for
debate! No vans, suvs, or mini trucks. No v8s. All cars must fit the wheelbase of 110”. All trash
and debris must be removed from the car. Must have a visible roof sign or your number visible
on both sides of the car. No profanity lettered on cars.
1.) CAGE– all cage material can be no bigger than 2×6 rectangle. A 4-pt. cage will be allowed.
With a vertical halo. May have a gas tank protector no wider than 12” off the center of the
seat bar each way making it 24” wide total. You may run 2 kicker bars from the vertical part
of the halo back to the top of the gas tank protector on both sides. This will protect the
tanks from anything coming in. All cage material must be at least 4” off the floor. Both door
bars can only go 6” past the outside door seam on the front doors to the back of the car.
Door bars and dash bar must be a minimum of 6” away from the firewall. The halo bars may
go all the way to the floor or frame and be welded in. You can also have 2 other down bars
from cage to frame or body between the front door seams going no further forward than
the outside front door seam. A front window is required. May go from the roof to the dash
bar or the roof to the firewall but not both and cannot be connected to the halo. A rear
window bar will be allowed. Must run from the roof to the front trunk seam and may go 3”
to either side of the seam allowing a total of 6”. This cannot attach to the halo.
2.) FRAME– No welding allowed on the frame. You may be allowed to pre curl the rear frame
section if you wish. Cradle bolts maybe changed to ¾” allthread running from bottom of the
cradle through the frame. Must be fastened with flat stamped washers and ¾” nut. Must be
flush with top of the frame. Only the front two at the core support may run up through the
hood as body bolts. You are allowed (1) 3/8” chain per side from unibody to cradle. 1 loop
only welded on each end. You CANNOT weld the loops together.
3.) Body– driver’s door may be welded solid. Drivers’ doors may be plated or wrapped. Can not
go any further than 3” past the front door seams. All other doors must be welded 5 on 5 off.
The trunk seam may be welded 5 on 5 off as well. All body panels may be creased but no
doubling of seams. All body bolts may be changed to ¾” body bolts. Using bolts or allthread.
Must be secured with stamped washers and nuts. All washers and nuts on the bottom side
must be inside the frame not across the bottom of the frame. The top of the body bolt
inside the cab or trunk of the car may have (1) 3x3x1/4 plate to serve as a washer with (1)
¾” nut. All body bolts must have the factory rubber bushing or a 1” body spacer of some
sort. Each wheel well opening may have a total of (5) 3/8” bolts with washers and nuts to
bolt the wheel wells together. The body cannot be welded to the frame in any fashion. This
includes the unibody to the k frame. (2) pieces of ¾” allthread may run through the trunk.
These may run through the frame being used as a body bolt or may be ran sheet metal to
sheet metal.
4.) DRIVETRAIN– engines must be 6cyl or smaller. No v8s! Engines and transmission of choice
otherwise. May have headers. May have carb conversions. May have a simple carb
protector must stay between the headers and can not strengthen the car in anyway. A
lower engine cradle may be used for RWD cars. Must bolt to the block of the engine and can
only be mounted using a factory oem rubber lower mount of some sort. Only a simple
cradle maybe used. No pulley protector, no front or midplates. This is for mounting
purposes only. Crossmembers on rwd cars must be an OEM crossmember of some sort. Can
use a piece of angle 2”x2”x ¼” x 6” long welded to the frame for the crossmember to bolt
using 1 ½” bolt per side. Slider drive shafts are welcome. Aftermarket pedals and shifters
allowed. Transmission coolers allowed.
5.) SUSPENSION AND STEERING– Front struts must be stock appearing! They may be welded
up, stuffed, and reinforced on the inside. Custom or aftermarket steering columns are
allowed. The upper and lower control arms and front wheel hubs must remain factory! A
arms may be welded down using (2) 2x3x1/4” straps per upper a arm. Leaf springs must be
of factory oem origin. May have a total of 7 leafs per side. The leafs must taper 1” starting
with the main leaf. May have 3 clamps per side of the rearend totaling 6 per side of the car.
Clamps must be ¼” material 2” wide by 4” long max and using (2) 3/8” bolts per pack. Coil
spring cars may double the rear coils. May have 1 3/8” chain per side to set and adjust the
ride height.
6.) BUMPERS– You may run after market bumpers or homemade bumpers. This includes
pointys. If running a pointy factory or fabricated it cannot be any bigger the 13” from back
of the bumper to the point. The point must down grade of 32”. Bumpers cannot be any
taller than 8” at any location. You may shorten the frame to 1” in front of the core support
mount and hard-nosed the bumper to the frame. This means the main frame; it cannot
attach to the cradle on Fwd cars in any way. You will be allowed a 4” wide x 6” long x ¼”
thick bumper bracket per side. Bumper bracket must be on the wheel side of the frame rail
and must have a ½” inspection hole. If there isn’t one, you will cut one. There CANNOT be
any square tube added to the back of the bumper and being inserted inside the frame. If
this is found, you will not get the chance to cut and will not run period! All bumper
mounting rules apply to the rear bumper as well.
7.) HOODS– all cars must have a hood! No exceptions. The front core support mounts may be
changed to ¾” all thread. Using stamped washers and nuts. This piece of allthread may run
up through the hood and be used as a hood bolt. You may have 2 other hood bolts per side.
Maybe be all thread or angle iron hood clips with (1) ½” bolt per clip. Angle can only be
2x2x1/4” by 4” long. Hoods must have an inspection hole. If center of hood is cut out, you
may bolt the Sheetmetal back with up to (10) 3/8” bolts.
8.) WHEELS AND TIRES– 15” wheel and tire or smaller may be ran. Wheels may have a small 8”
multi center. No full center and no beadlocks. May have a 1” lip guard and a valve stem
protector. May run solid tires on the rear of FWD. NO FOAM filled.
9.) REARENDS- any OEM 5 lug rearend may be ran on Rwd cars. May have a simple back brace.
No full braces, no axle savers etc. Pinion brakes are allowed.
10.) #9wire– You may have 3 spots of 9 wire. Where and how it is ran is up to the driver. These
can only be 2 loops making a 4strand twist. May have a bolt squeezing the twist together in
the middle. No cables or chains may be used.
11.) Gas tanks– aftermarket tanks are allowed and preferred. Mounted on the gas tank protector
that is allowed is also preferred. Factory tanks will be allowed to run if they are metal! No
plastic tanks. Will be allowed to run under the car only if they are in front of the rear axle
and fully secured. If this becomes an issue, we will not allow it any further.
12.) Repair plates– pre ran cars and only pre ran cars will be allowed a max of (2) 4”x6”x ¼”
plates per frame rail, not the cradles. There must be a visible bend or damage for these
plates to be utilized. A ½” hole must be put in the plate for us to see through for inspection
or you will be asked to cut one, no exceptions. Any other damage repair will be at the
promoter of that shows discretion. That doesn’t necessarily mean it’ll be ok at the next
show. Any questions contact the promoter of the show.
If it is not listed in this set of rules again, do not do it! If you have questions, ask first. All
judges’ decisions are final. Any arguments or fighting and you will not run and be asked to
leave. No one other than the driver are allowed at the inspection of the car. You will get
(2) attempts to fix the car. If not done how you were asked in those (2) attempts, you will
be asked to load the car and not run.
Oklahoma Boys Promotions
Wade Daniels: 620-778-0119
John Reeves: 620-870-0254
Oklahoma Boys Promotions L.L.C.
General Rules and Regulations:
1. Any American made car can run with the following exceptions. Full-Size cars with the
wheelbase of at least 113” or more. No 4×4’s, Imperials, Ambulances, Hearses, Trucks or
Limousines.
2. All driver’s must sign driver’s paperwork before being inspected or they will not run.
3. Driver’s must wear a seat belt, helmet, long sleeve shirt, pants (Fire Suit highly
recommended).
4. All drivers must attend the pit meeting before the event.
5. No drivers are allowed any alcohol or drugs before the event, If found under the
influence while wearing a drivers band you will be disqualified for the remainder of the
event.
6. Any complaints that a driver has about another car prior to the start of your heat will
need to be addressed in the drivers meeting in specifics. If nothing is said, we don’t
want to hear about it after the show.
7. DO NOT paint anywhere on suspension, frame, or interior of car.
8. No driver substitutions, only one driver per entered car.
9. Judges decisions are final!!
Show Rules:
1. You have 1 minute to make an aggressive hit, After 1 minute that car is
disqualified.
2. For safety, DO NOT HIT IN THE DRIVER’S DOOR!!
3. You will be given 2 fires 1st one we put out and the 2nd one you are done for that round.
4. Rollovers, you may keep going as long as car is deemed safe.
5. No holding or pinning, you must back up and show day light. You may not pin to win
Car Preparation: IF IT DOESN’T SAY YOU CAN SPECIFICALLY DO SOMETHING THEN YOU CAN’T
1. No fresh paint or undercoating on the frames at all. No buffing or grinding frames or
bodies except where welding is specifically allowed in the rules.
2. All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.
3. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from the car before arriving to
the derby.
4. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
5. You MUST have a number in bright colors on each front door and may have a sign on
the roof of your car with car number on it for recognition or car.
6. Batteries must be moved to passenger front floorboard. They must be properly secured
and covered.
7. All cars must have working brakes, If the car is not able to exhibit the ability to stop, it
will not be inspected.
8. NO welding other than what is mentioned in this set of rules. If your car is found with
any weld other than what is allowed and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction,
you and your car will not run.
Body:
1. Remove all glass mirrors and plastic. Remove all decking in wagons, cars must be swept
clean of all debris before you get to the derby.
2. No sedagons fresh or preran, zero crease enhancement, zero sheet metal or frame
shaping, forming or folding.
3. Deck lids must be in stock location. You may tuck trunk with a single 90-degree bend.
Fasten trunk or tailgate with 4 places 2 strands of #9 wire or 3/8” chain.
4. Anything can be removed; nothing can be added.
5. Hoods get one hood clip 3” long 2”x 2” x3/16” with one 1⁄2” bolt and nut per side. (2)
5/8” bolts total thru hood in firewall area and 2 core support bolts thru the hood to top
of frame only with 4” washes.
6. You may weld doors total of 6 inches on each vertical seem only 2”x 1/8” strap. Drivers’
door may be welded solid.
7. Body mounts and spacers to remain stock and in place. If they are broken or rusted out,
a single piece #9 wire may be substituted. No body bolt changing allowed.
8. #9 wire, chain or bar required in front windshield.
Frames
1. No welding on frames allowed.
2. No suspension modifications allowed, must remain strictly stock.
3. You may use 2 twists in spring spacers per side (store bought, no homemade).
4. You may use a single strand #9 wire to hold coil spring to rear end and leaf sprung cars
may use 4 single strands #9 wire as leaf clamps.
Tires/wheels:
1. Tires no bigger than 16 inches, no split rims, no studded tire, doubled tires are ok No foam
filled.
Drivetrain: any drivetrain allowed with the following criteria
1. Only the lower engine mounts may be welded to the crossmember. You may use two 1⁄2”
thick spacers to raise engine to clear steering components, may not exceed rubber mount
area. You may extend off back of crossmember but nothing excessive, 1⁄2’ flat plate only
(example sbc in Caddy, Mopar, Ford).
2. No tranny protectors, stock mounts only, stock crossmembers to car being ran only.
3. Rearend swaps allowed: No bracing, no welding, no re-enforcement. Max axle size 31
spline. Must be a direct bolt-in. gears maybe welded.
4. you may run 1 piece of 3/8” chain from rearend around frame OR 2 strands of #9 wire from
rearend to frame, nothing thru the body, nothing thru the frame (#9 wire 2 loops, 4 strands
together).
5. Floor shifters allowed, gas/brake pedals allowed, headers allowed. (none may strengthen
the car).
6. No cradles, protectors, skid plates no aftermarket parts of this nature at all.
7. You may swap engines, example chevy in a ford.
8. Slider drive shafts are allowed.
9. Aftermarket steering column ok, no hydro steering, aftermarket pedal and shifter ok.
Driver’s Compartment:
1. 4-point square cage 6” max material. 6” away from fire wall inside of car not inside of door
skins. Side bars not to exceed 62” in total length, with one 2” x 3” down tube to sheet
metal only per side. Halo bar allowed to back seat bar or floor sheet metal.
2. Gas Tank Protector
Gas tank protector is allowed no wider than 24 inches. Must be at least 1 inch away
from the rear package tray. Must run straight back from the center of the cage and
must be a minimum of 4 inches off the trans tunnel. Can run 2 support bars off the halo
to gas tank protector to support it. MUST BE INSIDE THE CAR
3. Driver’s door must be padded.
4. Gas tank must be removed cannot use factory tank. Battery must be moved and secured to
passenger side floorboard.
5. Trans coolers allowed, must be mounted inside of cage are.
Bumpers:
1. You may weld on any OEM stock bumper, you can stuff OEM stock bumber, you may weld
stock bumper bracket for the car or the bumper to the frame 4 inches from back of
bumper, single pass only.
1a. In addition, you may put 4 one-inch welds on back side of bracket or to weld shock
inside frame. (example Crown Vics). All bumper material longer than 4 inches must be
removed.
2. Shocks can be collapsed and welded, all shocks and brackets in stock location and extended
one inch in front of frame.
➢ All bumper brackets and shocks must be in stock location.
OR
➢ You may shorten to one inch in front of the core support space and hard nose
with no shocks or brackets on car.
OR
➢ You may chain, one piece of chain per side BOLTED from the mount to mount to
hold on the bumper.
Pre Rans:
You may have (2) 4” x 4” x 1⁄4’ plate per side where visibly bend (must show visibly bend) not
just because its pre ran.
Oklahoma Boys Promotions
Matt Alban: 620-515-4763
John Reeves: 620-870-0254